How to Load a Deer on ATV by Yourself

The Fast Answer If You’re Alone and It’s Heavy

I load a deer on an ATV alone by getting the deer on a plastic sled, using a short ramp, and pulling it up with a winch or a rope-and-pulley tied to the front rack.

If I don’t have a winch, I flip the deer so the brisket faces up, cinch a strap behind the front legs, and “walk” it up a ramp one foot at a time.

I hunt 30-plus days a year, and I have done this in the Missouri Ozarks mud and Pike County, Illinois crop edges where you can see your mistake from 300 yards away.

I process my own deer in the garage, and I am not proud to say I have also dragged some like a caveman before I learned better.

Decide This First. Drag Or Load Where It Died.

Your first decision is simple. Are you loading the deer where it fell, or are you dragging it 30 to 80 yards to a better spot first.

If the deer is in a ditch, a fence corner, or knee-deep brush, I drag it to flat ground even if it costs me 10 minutes.

I learned the hard way that trying to “make it work” in bad footing is how you blow your back out and roll an ATV.

Back in 2013 in the Missouri Ozarks on public land, I tried loading a doe on a sidehill with wet leaves at 41 degrees, and the ATV slid a foot when I leaned into it.

That was enough for me. Flat ground is worth the effort.

If you are hunting steep hill country like Buffalo County, Wisconsin, forget about loading on the slope and focus on moving the deer to a bench or the top of the ridge first.

My Quick Rule of Thumb

If you are alone and the deer feels over 140 pounds on the ground, do not “deadlift” it, use a sled and a winch or pulley.

If you see the tongue out and the belly swollen, expect a lot of gas and fluids, and keep the deer downhill from your ATV and gear.

If conditions change to freezing rain or slick mud, switch to a wider ramp angle and add a ratchet strap as a safety line so the deer cannot slide back down.

Pick Your Method. Winch, Ramp, Or The “Half-And-Half”.

There are three ways I do this alone. Winch, ramp-and-muscle, or sled-to-rack in two stages.

The best choice depends on deer size, terrain, and how far you have to go to the truck.

If it is Pike County, Illinois and I am dealing with a 200-pound corn-fed buck, I plan on a winch every time.

If it is the Missouri Ozarks and it is a smaller doe, I can do ramp-and-muscle if my footing is good.

If it is snow, like the Upper Peninsula Michigan style tracking conditions, a sled is the whole deal because it slides easy.

My buddy swears by just throwing deer over the rack and strapping it. I have found that works until it doesn’t, and “doesn’t” is usually at dusk with a tweaked back.

Mistake To Avoid. Don’t Lift The Whole Deer At Once.

The biggest mistake I see is guys trying to bear hug a deer and toss it up like a hay bale.

That works with a 95-pound yearling. It gets dumb fast with a mature buck.

I learned the hard way that the hardest part is not the weight, it is the awkward shape and the slick hair.

Back in November 2019 in Pike County, Illinois, the morning after a cold front, I killed my biggest buck at 156 inches, and I still did not try to lift him alone.

I slid him onto a sled first, then used the winch slow and steady.

If you are curious how heavy your deer really is, this connects to what I wrote about how much a deer weighs so you can plan your load method before you’re stuck.

Here Is What I Do. The Sled-And-Winch Method.

This is my “I am alone and I want zero drama” setup. It works in mud, snow, and tall grass.

I keep a sled, a short ramp, and two ratchet straps in the ATV box all season.

Step 1. Park the ATV on the flattest spot you can find, and set the parking brake.

Step 2. Turn the ATV so the rear rack faces the deer, and keep the nose slightly uphill if you can.

Step 3. Roll the deer onto a plastic sled, head first, belly up if possible.

Step 4. Hook the winch line to the sled rope, not the deer’s leg.

Step 5. Put a ramp on the rear rack, and run the winch line over the ramp so it pulls straight.

Step 6. Winch the sled up until the front half is on the rack, then stop and re-check balance.

Step 7. Winch until the sled is fully on, then strap the whole bundle down tight.

I wasted money on a $400 ozone scent control setup that did nothing, but a $28 plastic sled has saved my back more times than I can count.

If you want to plan your sits so you are not doing this in the dark, when I am trying to time deer movement, I check feeding times first.

Gear Choice Tradeoff. Plastic Sled Vs. Deer Cart.

A deer cart is great on smooth trails. It is awful in blowdowns and rocks.

A sled is not fancy, but it slides over junk and doesn’t care about logs.

On Mark Twain National Forest, my best public land spot, a cart will make you say words your kids should not hear.

That is why I use a sled in the Ozarks and save the cart idea for farm lanes in places like Southern Iowa.

If you are hunting thick cover, forget about a cart and focus on a sled and a winch line you can reroute around trees.

Winch Setup. Don’t Rip Your Rack Off.

If your ATV has a winch, use it, but don’t get sloppy.

I hook to the sled rope and keep the pull low and straight, so I am not torquing the rack mounts.

I also run a second line as a safety, like a ratchet strap from the sled back to the hitch, so it cannot slide back and jerk the winch.

I learned the hard way that jerks and pops are what break stuff, not steady pulls.

I have used a Superwinch Terra 45 on one ATV, and it pulled fine, but the cheap hook that came with it bent after two seasons.

I replaced the hook with a better one and kept using the winch, because the motor was still strong.

No Winch. Decide Between A Ramp Pull Or A Pulley.

If you do not have a winch, you still have two solid options.

You can pull the deer up a ramp with rope, or you can rig a cheap pulley to multiply your pull.

I like the pulley option because it turns “barely possible” into “slow but sure.”

My buddy swears a ramp alone is enough. I have found that is true until the rack is chest-high and the deer is soaked.

Here Is What I Do. The Rope-And-Pulley Method With No Winch.

I keep a small pulley, 30 feet of rope, and a carabiner in my pack during gun season.

This is also handy if you have to pull a deer up a cut bank.

Step 1. Tie the rope to the front rack or hitch, not the plastic rack plastic cover.

Step 2. Run the rope through a pulley attached to the sled rope.

Step 3. Run the free end back to the ATV and pull hand-over-hand.

Step 4. When you need a break, wrap the rope around the rack post to hold tension.

It is not fast. It is controlled.

I have loaded deer like this in Buffalo County, Wisconsin after a long drag, and it kept me from doing something dumb while tired.

Ramp Angle Tradeoff. Steep Is Strong. Shallow Is Safe.

A steep ramp needs less length, but it is harder to pull and easier for the load to slide.

A shallow ramp takes more space, but it reduces the “oh no” moment.

If the ground is slick, I go shallow, even if it means repositioning the ATV twice.

If you are hunting rain-soaked leaves, this connects to what I wrote about where deer go when it rains, because wet weather changes both deer location and how miserable your recovery gets.

How I Position The Deer. Head First, Hips Last.

I load head first when I can. The chest slides better and the head acts like a wedge.

I keep the hips toward the ground until the last moment, because that is the heaviest part.

If antlers are in the way, I angle the head to one side and pad the rack with my jacket.

If it is a doe, I still do the same thing, because legs snag on everything.

If you are new and still learning deer terms, I explain the basics in what a female deer is called and what a male deer is called.

Field Dress Or Not. Make A Decision Based On Distance And Temperature.

If it is over 55 degrees, I field dress first unless the ride out is under 10 minutes.

If it is under 40 degrees and the ride is short, I sometimes load whole and field dress at the barn or the garage.

I do this because I process my own deer, and I like clean work on a tarp with light.

If you want my exact steps, when I am trying to avoid gut mess, I follow my own checklist in how to field dress a deer.

Mistake To Avoid. Don’t Strap A Warm Deer Tight With No Airflow.

Strapping a warm deer tight to the rack in warm weather can cook the meat fast.

I learned that in East Texas heat on a hog hunt when we treated meat like it had all day, and it did not.

If it is warm, I crack the legs open a bit, keep it shaded, and get moving.

What I Use For Straps. Cheap Works If You Don’t Buy Junk.

I use basic 1-inch ratchet straps, two of them, and a short bungee just to keep loose legs from flopping.

The brand I keep buying is Rhino USA 1-inch straps, and the $22 pair has held up for three seasons without the ratchets sticking.

Rack Protection. Decide If You Care About Blood On Your Plastics.

I used to not care, because I grew up poor and we ran what we had.

Now I put a contractor bag or a cheap tarp down first, because it keeps the ATV from smelling like a gut pile for a month.

I wasted money on fancy “scent-proof” covers before switching to a $6 Harbor Freight tarp that does the job.

Safety Stuff Guys Ignore. Don’t Get Hurt Over A Deer.

I keep the ATV in park with the brake on, and I chock a tire with a rock if I am on any grade.

I keep my hands out of pinch points, because a sliding deer will smash fingers like a hammer.

I also keep my knife put away during loading, because blood and slick gloves make dumb cuts happen.

If you have kids with you, I make them stand 15 feet away and just hold a flashlight.

Use The Right Tie Points. Plastics Lie.

Most ATV racks have strong metal underneath and flimsy plastic on top.

I hook straps to the frame or real rack bars, not the plastic loops that look handy.

I learned the hard way that plastic loops snap in cold weather, and then your deer is dragging a leg at 12 miles per hour.

Shot Placement Matters Here Too. Less Blood On The Trail Is Not Always “Good.”

A heart shot often means an easy load because the deer is usually close and not bloated.

A gut shot can mean a long wait, a long drag, and a mess when you lift it.

I am telling you this because my worst mistake was gut shooting a doe in 2007, pushing her too early, and never finding her.

I still think about it, and it made me slow down and be more careful with every recovery step.

If you want my honest take on making a deer drop fast, this ties into where to shoot a deer to drop it in its tracks.

FAQ

Can I load a deer on an ATV alone without a ramp?

Yes, but I only do it with a sled and a winch, or with a buddy grabbing a leg.

Without a ramp, you end up lifting higher than you think, and that is where backs get hurt.

Should I field dress before I load the deer on an ATV?

If it is over 55 degrees or you have a long ride, I field dress first.

If it is under 40 degrees and you are close, I sometimes load whole and dress at home on a tarp.

What is the easiest way to pull a deer up onto the rack by yourself?

A winch pulling a sled up a short ramp is the easiest way I know.

If you do not have a winch, a pulley setup gives you controlled pulling without burning your legs out.

How do I keep the deer from sliding off the back while loading?

I run a second “safety” strap from the sled or deer back to the ATV hitch before I pull.

If it slips, the strap catches it instead of letting it rocket downhill.

Is it safe to strap a deer on the front rack instead of the back?

I do front rack only for small deer, because steering gets heavy and your headlights get blocked.

On a bigger deer, I use the rear rack so I can see and control the ATV better.

Next, I am going to get into the exact ramp sizes I like, and how I load different sized deer from 90 pounds up to 220 pounds without blowing my back out.

I am also going to cover what changes if you are bowhunting deep on public land versus driving field edges on a lease.

Decide Your Ramp Setup. Short And Steep Or Long And Easy.

I use a 6-foot ramp if the ground is slick, and a 4-foot ramp if I have good traction and I am using a winch.

If I am alone with no winch, I go longer every time, because long ramps turn panic into control.

I learned the hard way that a short, steep ramp feels “portable,” right up until the deer starts sliding back at your shins.

Back in 2016 in the Missouri Ozarks, I tried to save time with a short ramp on wet clay, and I had to dump the whole load off and reset it twice.

Here is what I do. I carry two folding aluminum ramps that are rated for 750 pounds each, not the cheap ones meant for lawn mowers.

I set them close enough together that the sled rides straight, then I angle the ramp so the deer pulls up the center line of the ATV.

My Actual Ramp Sizes And Why I Like Them.

A 4-foot ramp is fine with a winch on a medium deer, because the pull does the work.

A 6-foot ramp is better for ramp-and-rope because you can stop and reset without the deer rocketing backward.

If I am loading onto a Polaris Sportsman rack that sits about 34 inches off the ground, a 6-foot ramp gives me a friendlier angle.

If I am loading onto a low utility ATV or a side-by-side bed, 4 feet is usually enough.

If you are hunting hill country like Buffalo County, Wisconsin, forget about the “perfect ramp length” and focus on finding a spot where the ATV sits flat.

A perfect ramp on a bad slope is still a bad plan.

Decide How Heavy This Deer Really Is. 90, 140, Or 220 Pounds Changes Everything.

I do not care what the buck scored. I care what he feels like when I grab a leg and try to roll him.

I split it into three real-world groups, because that tells me how to load him without getting hurt.

90 to 120 pounds on the ground is a yearling or small doe in most places I hunt.

120 to 170 pounds is the “normal adult deer” range that tricks guys into thinking they can muscle it.

170 to 220 pounds is the corn-fed, thick-neck deer I see in Pike County, Illinois that makes you respect physics.

If you want a quick reality check before you start, this connects to what I wrote about how much a deer weighs so you can match the method to the animal.

Here Is What I Do With A 90-To-120 Pound Deer. Keep It Simple.

If it is a small deer, I still do not deadlift the whole thing if I am alone.

I load in two moves and save my back for next weekend.

Step 1. I pull the deer onto the bottom of the ramp with the head up the ramp.

Step 2. I lift and slide the front half onto the rack, then I go back for the hips.

Step 3. I grab both back legs at the hocks and walk them up the ramp until the hips clear the edge.

Step 4. I strap it down tight, then I tuck legs so nothing drags.

My buddy swears by grabbing antlers and yanking. I have found antlers are a great handle until you slip and slam the deer’s head into your rack.

If the deer is a buck, I use the neck and brisket as my “push point,” not the rack.

Here Is What I Do With A 120-To-170 Pound Deer. Use The “Half-And-Half” Plan.

This is the danger zone, because it is heavy enough to hurt you and light enough to tempt you.

I learned the hard way that “almost heavy” is how guys get sloppy and tear something.

Step 1. I get the deer on a sled even if I think I can skip it.

Step 2. I hook my rope or winch to the sled, and I pull until the shoulders are on the rack.

Step 3. I stop and re-center the load, because a deer that is 6 inches off center will make the ATV feel tippy.

Step 4. I pull again until the hips are up, then I strap it before I drive an inch.

If you are hunting public land in the Missouri Ozarks and you are alone, forget about speed and focus on control.

The drag out is where you get hurt, not the shot.

Here Is What I Do With A 170-To-220 Pound Deer. Winch Or Pulley, No Ego.

If it is a big buck, I treat it like a piece of furniture, not like an animal I can “tough guy” onto a rack.

This is where I go winch every time, or I rig a pulley and accept that it takes 15 minutes.

Step 1. I field dress if it is over 50 degrees or I am more than 20 minutes from the cooler.

Step 2. I keep the deer downhill from the ATV so fluids do not run into my rack box and straps.

Step 3. I sled it, winch it, and stop halfway to re-check that the ramp is not bowing.

Step 4. I strap it with two ratchet straps plus a third “insurance” strap over the hips.

Back in November 2019 in Pike County, Illinois, that 156-inch buck was built like a steer.

I took my time and winched him, because I still had to drive rutted field edges for 1.2 miles to the barn.

Mistake To Avoid. Letting The Deer Roll Sideways On The Ramp.

Sideways is when it all goes wrong, because the sled binds, the rope pulls crooked, and the deer slides off the ramp.

I learned the hard way that the fix is not “pull harder,” it is “straighten the pull.”

Here is what I do. I run the rope dead center and I keep the sled runners lined up with the ramp tracks.

If the deer starts to yaw, I stop pulling, kick the ramp into alignment, and restart.

Tradeoff. Bowhunting Deep On Public Land Versus Driving Field Edges On A Lease.

On a lease, I can usually get close, and the loading job is the main work.

On public land, the drag to the ATV is often the real pain, and you need a method that works when you are smoked.

In Pike County, Illinois, I can often drive within 80 to 200 yards of a recovery on field edges.

In the Missouri Ozarks, I might be 600 yards back in timber with a creek crossing and deadfalls.

If you are hunting deep public land, forget about fancy accessories and focus on three things that never fail.

A sled, a rope, and straps that do not slip.

When I am trying to pick a route out that avoids the worst stuff, I think about where deer like to travel, and that connects to deer habitat because the easiest drag lines often follow the same benches and saddles deer use.

Decide If You’re Going To Quarter It Or Haul It Whole.

I am not a “quarter every deer” guy, but I am also not stubborn when the situation is bad.

If it is a mile out, 62 degrees, and no shade, I am quartering, period.

Here is what I do when I decide to haul whole.

I field dress, prop the chest open with a stick, and get the deer moving fast.

Here is what I do when I decide to break it down.

I put the meat in game bags and pack it on the ATV, because that beats spoiling the whole deer.

If you want to estimate what you are actually bringing home, this ties into how much meat from a deer so you can make the call before you start sweating.

Product I Actually Use. The Cheap Sled That Keeps Working.

I have used the Shappell Jet Sled Jr. for years, and mine cost about $49 when I bought it.

It is scratched up and ugly, but it slides over grass and snow and it does not care about rocks.

I drilled two extra holes and added thicker rope, because the factory rope was thin and burned my hands with gloves on.

I wasted money on “deer drag harness” gimmicks before I just committed to a sled and never looked back.

What Changes In Snow, Mud, And Corn Stubble.

Snow is the easiest loading I ever get, if the ATV can reach it.

Mud is the most dangerous, because your feet go out and the ATV slides when you lean on it.

Corn stubble is sneaky, because it trips you and it rips up cheap tarps.

In Southern Iowa style cut fields, I keep my steps short and I do not rush the last 18 inches of the pull.

If you are hunting wind and weather shifts and you keep ending up dragging in nasty conditions, this connects to what I wrote about do deer move in the wind because wind changes where deer bed, and where they die is where you load them.

Mistake To Avoid. Driving Out With Legs And Antlers Hanging.

I have seen guys drive out with a back leg dragging like a winch line.

That is how you lose straps, tear meat, and get a ticket if you cross a road.

Here is what I do. I tuck legs under the body and I cinch one strap around the hips to lock everything in.

If it is a buck, I also strap the head so the rack cannot bounce and chip a tine.

If you are curious why bucks beat themselves up and how antlers get that way, it connects to why deer have antlers

FAQ

What is the easiest ramp length for loading a deer onto an ATV alone?

I like 6 feet if you are pulling by hand or using a pulley, because the angle is safer.

If you have a winch and solid ground, 4 feet works and is easier to carry.

How do I load a deer if my ATV racks are plastic and feel flimsy?

I hook and strap to the metal frame points under the rack, not the plastic loops.

If you cannot find strong tie points, I would rather load into a small trailer than rip a rack off in the woods.

Should I put the deer on the front rack or the back rack?

I use the back rack for anything bigger than a small doe, because steering gets unsafe with weight up front.

If I have to use the front, I keep speed under 10 miles per hour and I strap the head so it does not block my view.

How do I keep the meat clean when I load a deer on an ATV?

I throw a cheap tarp or a contractor bag on the rack first, then I load the sled on top of that.

I also avoid dragging the deer through mud if I can, even if it means walking it 40 yards to grass.

What should I do if the deer starts to slide back down the ramp?

I stop pulling and set the safety strap tighter before I do anything else.

Then I lower it under control, fix the ramp angle, and restart instead of trying to catch it with my hands.

I started hunting whitetails with my dad in southern Missouri when I was 12, and I still do most things the cheap way because that is how I grew up.

Loading a deer alone is one spot where I refuse to be cheap on safety, because I want to hunt tomorrow and I want my kids to see it done right.