Single Bevel vs Double Bevel Broadheads

Pick Your Bevel Based on Blood, Bone, and Your Setup

If you want the simple answer, I shoot double bevel for most whitetail hunts, and I switch to single bevel when I am worried about breaking heavy bone or I am pushing higher arrow weight.

Single bevel broadheads can give better bone splitting and a twisting cut, but they ask more of your tune and they can hide a weak setup.

I have been bowhunting for 25 years with a compound, and I still change my mind depending on the hunt.

I hunt 30 plus days a year, and I have seen broadhead arguments cost guys deer when the real issue was bad tune and bad shot choice.

Decision One: Are You Trying to Break Bone, Or Just Cut Lungs?

Here is what I do when I am hunting Pike County, Illinois and I know a 220 pound corn fed buck might show up at 12 yards.

I think about shoulder bone first, because big bucks do dumb things like turn hard at the shot.

Single bevel heads tend to keep driving and split bone better, especially with a stout fixed blade.

Double bevel heads tend to be more forgiving and still cut a big clean hole if you stay off the shoulder.

If you are a “pick a rib and zip it” shooter, double bevel works and it works a lot.

If you are the guy who sometimes hits a little high, a little forward, or you hunt thick cover where angles get weird, single bevel starts to make sense.

Mistake To Avoid: Buying Single Bevel And Thinking It Fixes Bad Penetration

I learned the hard way that broadheads do not fix a sloppy setup.

Back in 2007 when I was hunting the Missouri Ozarks, I gut shot a doe and pushed her too early, and I never found her.

That one still bothers me, and it made me picky about two things now, shot angle and blood trail.

A single bevel can help penetration, but it will not make a bad hit good.

If you are shooting low FOC arrows, light total weight, and your bow is not tuned, you can still get junk holes and short blood.

Fix your tune and your arrow build first, then pick the bevel.

Tradeoff: Single Bevel Can Steer More If Your Arrow Is Weak Or Your Bow Is Out Of Tune

Single bevel heads want to rotate through the animal, and that rotation is real.

The tradeoff is they can show you every tuning flaw you have.

Here is what I do before I ever hunt a single bevel.

I paper tune at 6 feet, then I walk back tune out to 40 yards, then I broadhead tune at 50 yards.

If my broadheads hit 4 inches right at 50, I do not “accept it,” I fix it.

My buddy swears by single bevel on every hunt, but I have found most guys who hate them never truly tuned for them.

Double Bevel: The Safe Bet For Most Whitetail Bowhunters

Double bevel is what I hand to a new hunter, including my own kids, because it is simpler.

It sharpens fast, it tends to fly easier, and it does not ask you to be perfect.

I grew up poor and hunted public land before I could afford leases, so I learned to keep things simple and repeatable.

In the Missouri Ozarks on public ground, I would rather have a head that flies like my field points than a fancy idea that is finicky.

If you are hunting pressured deer and getting one shot a season, boring and accurate beats trendy.

Single Bevel: Where I Think It Shines And Why

I like single bevel when the hit might be ugly but still lethal, like tight timber and fast shots.

I also like it when I am shooting a heavier arrow, 475 grains and up, because it tends to keep driving.

Back in November 2019 in Pike County, Illinois, I killed my biggest buck, a 156 inch typical, on a morning sit after a cold front.

That buck came in stiff legged and quartering a bit, and I remember thinking, “Do not hit shoulder.”

I did not hit shoulder, but I did clip near-side rib hard, and penetration still mattered.

Single bevel is not magic, but it can be the difference between one lung and two when things are not perfect.

My Quick Rule of Thumb

If you are shooting under 450 grains total arrow weight, do double bevel and focus on perfect tune and sharpness.

If you see chewed up arrows, busted nocks, or blood that turns to pin drops at 60 yards, expect you are not getting full pass-through and you need more penetration.

If conditions change to steep quartering shots in thick cover, switch to a tougher fixed blade and consider single bevel with a heavier arrow.

Decision: Mechanical Or Fixed Matters More Than Bevel For Most People

I know the title is bevel, but I am going to say it plain.

Most lost deer I have seen were from bad hits, dull heads, and mechanical failures, not the bevel angle.

If you want max cut and easy blood, a quality mechanical can work, but it can also fail on bone.

If you want reliability, a fixed blade is my pick, especially on public land where tracking gets ugly fast.

For shot placement, this connects to what I wrote about where to shoot a deer when you want fast recoveries.

Sharpening Tradeoff: Single Bevel Takes More Discipline

Double bevel sharpening is simple, because both sides match and you can freehand it faster.

Single bevel sharpening asks you to keep a consistent angle on one side, and it punishes sloppy hands.

Here is what I do in my garage, the same place I process my own deer like my uncle taught me.

I use a flat stone, I mark the edge with a Sharpie, and I count strokes so I do not get lazy.

I learned the hard way that a “kinda sharp” broadhead is a good way to get poor blood and long nights.

I would rather shoot a scary sharp double bevel than a mediocre single bevel.

Left Bevel Or Right Bevel: Pick One And Stick To It

If you go single bevel, you have to choose left or right bevel.

My rule is simple, match your arrow build and do not mix them in the same quiver.

Some guys want to match bevel direction to fletching direction, and I get why.

I am not going to pretend I can prove that part on every deer, but I will say consistency helps you troubleshoot.

If you are the type who changes five things at once, single bevel will make you crazy.

Arrow Setup: If Your Arrow Is Light, Forget About Bevel And Focus On Weight And Tune

If you are hunting Ohio straight-wall season with a bow early and you built a 380 grain arrow for speed, forget about bevel and focus on penetration basics.

Add weight up front, shoot a stiffer spine, and get broadheads grouping at 50 yards.

When I am trying to predict how deer might move and set up for closer shots, I check feeding times first.

Close shots fix a lot of gear problems, and pressured deer punish long shots.

This also ties into what I wrote about are deer smart because the ones that live on public land learn patterns fast.

Blood Trails: Don’t Overthink Holes, Think About Exit Side

Everybody wants a paint trail, and I do too.

But in the Missouri Ozarks, blood can disappear in leaf litter in 15 yards even on a perfect hit.

Here is what I do to stack odds for blood.

I hunt for an exit hole by controlling shot angle, and I wait for the deer to open up, even if it means I pass.

Single bevel can help you get that exit, but only if you are already driving deep.

If you want a reminder on what deer do after the shot based on conditions, this connects to where deer go when it rains because weather changes how they bed and how they run.

Gear I Actually Trust: Broadheads And Why

I am not a professional guide or outfitter, and I have burned money on gear that did not work before I learned what matters.

The most wasted money I ever spent was $400 on ozone scent control that made zero difference for me.

Broadheads are the opposite, because a good head is not hype, it is meat in the freezer.

Mistake To Avoid: Cheap Heads With Soft Steel

I learned the hard way that soft steel heads bend when they hit rib hard, then they plane and you get one lung.

If your head comes out of the target with rolled edges after two shots, it is telling you the truth.

Spend the money on good steel, then shoot them enough to trust them.

I have had good luck with the Iron Will SB series for single bevel fixed blades, but they are not cheap.

I like them because they stay together, the edges stay sharp, and they tune well if your bow is right.

For double bevel, I have shot the Magnus Stinger two blade and it is hard to beat for the money.

It sharpens easy, it flies good, and the warranty has been solid from what I have seen.

Decision: If You Hunt Big Woods Or Snow, Plan For Tracking Either Way

In the Upper Peninsula Michigan, snow tracking can make you feel like a hero, and it can also make you lazy about setup.

In Buffalo County, Wisconsin hill country with pressure, deer can go 120 yards downhill and pile up in the nastiest brush you can find.

Bevel choice does not replace tracking discipline.

If you want help reading deer behavior after the hit, it helps to know what you are chasing, so I point new guys to deer species and how different deer act in different places.

Hard Truth: Shot Angle Rules Your Outcome More Than Bevel

If you are hunting from a saddle at 22 feet and you are shooting steep down, your cut path changes.

Quartering to shots are where people lie to themselves.

If you are hunting steep quartering-to in thick cover, forget about giant cut diameter and focus on a tough head, sharp edge, and waiting for a better step.

I would rather eat tag soup than repeat my 2007 mistake, because bad angles feed that problem.

FAQ

Do single bevel broadheads really split bone better?

Yes, I have seen them crack and wedge through bone more often than double bevel, especially on heavy fixed heads and heavier arrows.

If your arrow is light or your head is dull, you can still lose that advantage fast.

Will a single bevel broadhead make my arrow fly different?

Yes, it can, and that is the price you pay for the rotation effect.

If your bow is not tuned or your spine is weak, you will see broadheads hit off from field points past 30 yards.

Should I switch to single bevel for public land deer in the Missouri Ozarks?

If you are taking quick shots in thick cover and your average hit is 18 yards, single bevel can help on marginal angles.

If you are still fighting broadhead flight, stay double bevel and spend your time tuning and getting closer.

Can I mix single bevel and double bevel broadheads in the same quiver?

I do not, because it makes tuning and troubleshooting harder than it needs to be.

Pick one style for the season and stick with it until you have real reasons to change.

What matters more than bevel if I keep getting weak blood trails?

Sharpness, shot angle, and getting an exit hole matter more than bevel for blood.

For recovery and meat care after you do find them, I follow my own steps from how to field dress a deer so I do not waste meat.

Is a two blade better than a three blade for whitetails?

I like two blades for penetration, and I like three blades for bigger holes and shorter trails on perfect hits.

Be honest about your shots and your setup, because both can work if you do your part.

What I Would Do For Three Real Hunts

If I am hunting Pike County, Illinois from a hang-on over a pinch point, I lean fixed and tough because big bucks do big buck things.

If I am hunting Buffalo County, Wisconsin with swirling wind and pressured deer, I lean accuracy first and I do not force 45 yard broadhead shots.

If I am hunting the Missouri Ozarks on public land and I might have to drag a deer 350 yards uphill, I pick the head that gives me the best chance at an exit hole.

This connects to what I wrote about do deer move in the wind because wind changes where I set up, and where I set up changes shot angles.

Here Is What I Do Before I Blame The Broadhead

I shoot one broadhead arrow every practice session, not just field points.

I mark that arrow and I keep it for broadhead tuning only.

I check every blade for hair shaving sharpness, because “pretty sharp” is not sharp.

I also weigh my finished arrows, because 22 grains difference can move impact and change penetration.

When I am trying to estimate drag weight and how much work a pack-out will be, I use how much a deer weighs as a sanity check, because big bodies change everything.

My Buddy Argument: “Single Bevel Or You’re Behind.”

My buddy swears by single bevel like it is the only smart choice.

I have found that most dead deer on my pole died from sharp heads, good tune, and boring shots, not a bevel trend.

Single bevel is a tool, not a personality.

Double bevel is not “outdated,” it is just simpler and it still kills clean.

If Conditions Change, I Change With Them

If I start seeing more quartering-to shots because deer are skirting me, I move stands before I change broadheads.

If I start hitting ribs hard and not getting exits, I add arrow weight before I blame the bevel.

If I am getting jumpy deer and string jumps, I shorten my max range and focus on ambush spots.

For that close-range planning, it helps to know bedding and travel basics, so I link people to deer habitat when they are picking setups.

Next: I Am Going To Talk About Tuning And Arrow Builds For Each Bevel

Bevel choice gets real once you match it to spine, insert weight, and broadhead design.

I am not wrapping this up yet, because the tuning steps and my exact arrow numbers are where most guys either win or waste a season.

Tuning And Arrow Builds: What I Actually Run For Each Bevel

Here is the direct answer.

If I am shooting double bevel, I prioritize broadhead flight and a repeatable 425 to 475 grain arrow.

If I am shooting single bevel, I prioritize spine and perfect tune, and I like 475 to 550 grains with a tougher shaft.

Back in November 2019 in Pike County, Illinois, I was not thinking about bevel angles in the tree.

I was thinking about whether my arrow was going to stay straight if that buck spun and I clipped bone.

Decision: Do You Want “Easy Accurate,” Or “Harder Tune With More Bite”?

This is the real tradeoff nobody wants to say out loud.

Double bevel is easier accurate for most compounds with average arrows.

Single bevel can give you more bite in bone, but it asks you to earn it with tune and arrow build.

If you do not want to tune, do not buy single bevel and then blame the head.

Here is what I do when I pick double bevel.

I build a middle of the road arrow that flies like a dart, then I shave-sharpen my heads and stop messing with it.

Here is what I do when I pick single bevel.

I stiffen spine first, then I add point weight, then I broadhead tune until my groups are boring.

Mistake To Avoid: Chasing FOC Numbers And Forgetting Spine

I learned the hard way that you can “build a heavy arrow” and still build a bad arrow.

A weak spine with a big fixed head is a recipe for left and right misses.

My buddy swears by crazy high FOC like it fixes everything.

I have found a properly spined arrow at 14 percent FOC beats a weak arrow at 22 percent FOC every day of the season.

If you are hunting the Missouri Ozarks in thick cover and your shots are 12 to 22 yards, forget about internet arrow math and focus on quiet, sharp, and flying true.

A bad flying arrow at 18 yards still hits bad, and I have already made that kind of mistake in 2007 and paid for it.

Here Is What I Do: My Double Bevel Setup That Just Works

I run a simple fixed head and I tune it to hit with field points at 30 and 40 yards.

I do not care what brand you shoot if it is sharp, straight, and strong.

On my Illinois lease in Pike County, I usually sit edges and funnels where a shot is 15 to 28 yards.

For that, I would rather have a double bevel that flies perfect than a single bevel I “hope” is tuned.

Here is what I do step by step.

I bare shaft at 15 yards until the tear and impact make sense, then I broadhead tune at 40.

I shoot the exact broadhead I will hunt with, not a practice clone.

I spin test every head on the arrow and I throw wobblers in the trash bin.

If I start seeing impact drift in the wind, this connects to what I wrote about do deer move in the wind because wind changes my shot timing and deer body angle.

Wind does not just move arrows, it moves deer, and that changes where your broadhead hits.

Here Is What I Do: My Single Bevel Setup When I Expect Bone

If I go single bevel, I build for control and push, not speed.

I would rather shoot 258 fps and get two holes than shoot 294 fps and get one lung.

In Buffalo County, Wisconsin hill country, shots can be weird.

Deer come in above you, below you, and quartering all the time because of those ridges.

Here is what I do for that kind of hunt.

I run a stiffer spine than most guys think they need, and I make sure my rest and cam timing are dead on.

I also pay attention to broadhead style.

A compact single bevel head is easier to tune than a long wide one, and it still splits bone if it is sharp.

When I am trying to figure out why a deer reacted the way it did after the shot, I think about how sharp my head was and where I hit.

This ties back into where to shoot a deer

Tradeoff: Single Bevel Helps Penetration, But It Can Hurt Forgiveness

Single bevel rotation is real, and it can help the head keep working forward.

The tradeoff is that it can also amplify a bad release or a weak spine.

I learned the hard way that “good groups at 20” can still mean “bad tune at 45.”

That is how guys end up with a high hit and no blood, then they blame broadheads.

If you are hunting Southern Iowa field edges and you are tempted to stretch it to 52 yards, forget about bevel talk and focus on your max range discipline.

Longer shots turn small gear problems into big misses.

Decision: Pick Your Broadhead For The Recovery You Can Actually Do

Recovery is part of the setup, not an afterthought.

On public land in the Missouri Ozarks, a deer can cross three ridges and hit posted land fast.

Here is what I do in that situation.

I bias toward penetration and an exit hole, even if the entry hole is not huge.

If you want a gut-check on what deer do in nasty weather after you bump them, this connects to where deer go when it rains.

Rain plus leaf litter can erase blood fast, so I want two holes and I want them low.

Mistake To Avoid: “Sharp Enough” Broadheads

I process my own deer in the garage, and I have cut myself enough times to respect sharp steel.

That same respect needs to be on your broadheads.

Here is what I do every time, even when I am tired the night before a hunt.

I touch up each head until it shaves hair and bites a thumbnail without sliding.

I learned the hard way that a dull head turns a clean double lung into a longer trail.

That is how you end up crawling in briars at midnight wondering what went wrong.

Reality Check: A Bevel Will Not Fix A Bad Tracking Decision

I have lost deer I should have found, and I have found deer I thought were gone.

The biggest swing factor is not bevel, it is what you do after the shot.

Back in 2007 in the Missouri Ozarks, I pushed that gut shot doe too early and never recovered her.

I still think about it when somebody tells me they are going to “give it 30 minutes” on a questionable hit.

Here is what I do now on any hit that is not a clear crash and done situation.

I back out, I mark last blood, I wait longer than I want to, and I come back calm.

For new hunters, it helps to understand what deer are and how they act under pressure, so I send them to are deer smart because a wounded deer will fool you.

A smart old doe can circle, bed, and watch her back trail like she is trying to catch you.

Two Small Things That Matter More Than Bevel

The first is arrow straightness and broadhead alignment.

If the head wobbles, your flight and penetration both suffer.

The second is your shot selection discipline.

If you keep forcing quartering-to shots, you are gambling with shoulder and brisket no matter what bevel you chose.

When I am planning family hunts with my kids, I set stands for broadside shots first.

I would rather have them pass a deer than rush a bad angle and learn a hard lesson too early.

One Last Opinion From A Guy Who Has Burned Money

I wasted money on $400 ozone scent control that did nothing for me.

That taught me to spend money where it actually touches the deer.

If you are trying to choose where to put your budget, buy good heads, good arrows, and a target you can shoot all summer.

Then spend your time practicing from the positions you actually hunt from.

If you want to keep your expectations grounded on body size and what you are really punching through, I use how much a deer weighs

A 220 pound Illinois buck is not the same job as a 140 pound Ozarks deer, and you feel it in penetration.

What I Want You To Take Into The Woods

Single bevel versus double bevel is a real choice, and it matters.

But it only matters after your tune, your sharpness, and your shot choices are solid.

Here is what I do if I am stuck deciding the night before opener.

I pick the head that flies best out of my bow at 40 yards, and I hunt with confidence.

If you do your part, both styles kill whitetails clean.

The deer will not care what bevel you shot, but it will care if you hit bone with a dull head or force a bad angle.