How to Practice Saddle Hunting Before Season

Decide If You Are Practicing “Hunting” Or Just Hanging

The best way to practice saddle hunting before season is to run full, timed reps with your exact gear, from the ground to “arrow-ready,” until you can do it quiet in under 8 minutes.

I am not talking about backyard yoga in a saddle.

I am talking about climbing, setting your platform, getting tethered, moving around the tree, and taking real shots at real angles.

I have hunted 30-plus days a year for two decades, and I have burned plenty of afternoons “practicing” that did not help on opening day.

Here is what I do now, because it works on my Pike County, Illinois lease and on nasty public land trees in the Missouri Ozarks.

Pick Your Practice Tree Like It Is Public Land, Or You Will Get Exposed

You need to decide if you are practicing on an easy tree or the trees you actually end up hunting.

If you only practice on a perfect, straight oak in the yard, you are lying to yourself.

Back in 2016 in the Missouri Ozarks, I picked a tree that looked fine from the ground but had a slight lean and a knot at 17 feet.

I got halfway through my setup and realized my tether angle was wrong, and every move squeaked.

Here is what I do now. I practice on three trees every summer. One straight. One leaning. One with limbs that force me to pick my platform height on the fly.

If you are hunting hill country like Buffalo County, Wisconsin, forget about “perfect trees” and focus on trees that make you manage your feet on a sidehill.

I want my practice to feel annoying, because real hunting is annoying.

Choose One System And Stop Mixing Gear Like A Yard Sale

You need to decide if you are a “one system” guy or a “try everything” guy.

I learned the hard way that mixing ropes, carabiners, and random pouches makes noise and creates mistakes.

Back in 2007 in southern Missouri, I was already making bad choices, and that year I gut shot a doe and pushed her too early and never found her.

I still think about it, and it is why I practice clean and slow until I can speed up without getting sloppy.

My buddy swears by carrying two extra carabiners “just in case,” but I have found extra metal just bangs your platform or steps at the worst time.

Here is what I do. I run the same saddle kit all season, and I do not change it in September unless something is broken.

If you keep swapping stuff, you never build the muscle memory that saves you in the dark.

Run Timed Reps From Backpack On To “Bow In Hand”

You need to decide if you are practicing skills or practicing the whole process.

The whole process is what counts, because deer show up while you are still messing around.

Here is what I do. I set my phone timer for 10 minutes. I start with my pack on my back and my bow on the pull rope. I stop the timer when I am clipped in, platform set, lineman belt off, and I can draw and aim without shifting my feet.

In Pike County, Illinois in November 2019, I killed my biggest buck, a 156-inch typical, on a morning sit after a cold front.

I was settled early, and that buck came through like he had a schedule.

That hunt taught me that “almost ready” is the same as not ready.

When I am trying to time deer movement, I check feeding times first, because I want to be set before that window opens.

Practice Quiet, Not Fast, Then Add Speed

You have to choose what you are optimizing for.

If you optimize for speed first, you will sound like a toolbox falling down a stairwell.

Here is what I do. I do five “silent reps” where I move slow and stop any time I hear metal tick bark. Then I do three “timed reps” where I move brisk but still quiet.

I wasted money on $400 worth of ozone scent control that made zero difference, and it taught me a lesson.

Noise control and entry routes matter more than magic gadgets.

This connects to what I wrote about are deer smart, because the ones that live on public land act like they have a PhD in catching little mistakes.

If you are hunting pressured ground in the Missouri Ozarks, forget about fancy scent systems and focus on silent setup and leaving no ground scent loops.

Decide Your Climbing Method And Get Ruthless About It

You need to pick how you climb, because each method changes everything else.

I have used sticks, steps, and one-sticking.

Most years, I run lightweight sticks because I can do it half-asleep in the dark.

My best cheap investment was $35 climbing sticks that I have used for 11 seasons.

Here is what I do. I mark my sticks with a paint pen so I can grab the same one in the same order every time. Top stick is always the one with the loudest buckle, because it stays on top and I can manage it.

If you are practicing with aider steps, practice with the exact boots you hunt in, or you will miss steps.

Back in 2018 on public land in the Ozarks, I tried a new boot with a softer sole and my aider felt like a wet noodle.

I got down, swapped boots, and never made that mistake again.

My Quick Rule of Thumb

If you cannot get fully set and shoot a safe practice shot in 10 minutes, do not move deeper on public land until you can.

If you see fresh rubs paired with a beaten sidehill trail, expect a buck to skirt the downwind edge and check it at first light.

If conditions change to steady wind over 12 mph, switch to a tighter tree setup with shorter shots and more tether tension so you do not sway and overcorrect.

Practice The Shot Angles That Ruin Deer, Not Just The Easy Ones

You have to decide if you are practicing to hit foam or practicing to kill clean.

I learned the hard way that bad angles lead to bad hits, and bad hits lead to sleepless nights.

That 2007 doe I lost was a gut shot, and pushing her early was on me.

Here is what I do. I shoot from the saddle at 7 yards, 12 yards, 18 yards, and 25 yards. I shoot strong side, weak side, and straight down with a hard “no shot” rule if the angle is wrong.

For shot placement thinking, I point people to what I wrote about where to shoot a deer to drop it in its tracks, because it keeps you honest about what “high,” “low,” and “back” actually mean.

If you are hunting thick cover like the Missouri Ozarks, forget about 40-yard hero shots and focus on 10-to-22-yard angles you can repeat every time.

Decide Where Your Feet Go, Or You Will Fight The Tree All Sit

Saddle hunting feels “mobile” until you set up wrong and spend three hours cramped.

You need to decide if you want comfort or maximum shot coverage, because you rarely get both.

Here is what I do. I hang my platform so my toes point at my “most likely” shot, not my “dream” shot.

On my Pike County lease, the most likely shot is a buck cruising the downwind side of a draw.

So I set my platform to cover that lane with a simple 45-degree pivot, not a full spin around the tree.

My buddy swears by tiny platforms, but I have found a slightly bigger platform keeps my knees and hips from screaming after two hours.

That matters when the rut turns into all-day sits.

For rut timing and why bucks show up at dumb hours, this ties into deer mating habits.

Practice Rope Management Until It Is Boring

You need to decide if you are going to be a “clean rope” guy or a tangled mess guy.

Rope management is not sexy, but it is the difference between quiet and chaos.

Here is what I do. I practice packing my tether and lineman rope the same way every time. Tether goes in a dump pouch on my left hip. Lineman goes in a pouch on my right hip. Tags face out so I can clip by feel.

I also practice with gloves, because November mornings in Illinois can make your hands stupid.

Back in 2014 in Buffalo County, Wisconsin, my fingers were numb and I fumbled a gate on a carabiner.

I got lucky nothing fell, but that was enough for me.

Gear I Actually Trust, And The Stuff I Regret Buying

You need to decide if you want simple gear that works, or fancy gear that adds failure points.

I am not a professional guide. I am just a guy who has burned money on gear that did not work before learning what matters.

One thing I do like is the Tethrd HYS Strap for a lineman belt, because the adjuster is smooth and it stays put.

I have used mine for multiple seasons, and it has not slipped on me yet.

I also still use basic climbing sticks more than I experiment, because they are quiet and predictable.

If you want a budget stick that a lot of guys beat up for years, Hawk Helium sticks are popular for a reason, even if the straps can be a little loud if you do not tape the buckles.

I wasted money on ozone scent control, and I will say it again because guys keep asking.

It did not beat a deer’s nose on the ground I hunt.

For scent and movement tradeoffs, it helps to understand deer habitat, because where deer bed and travel decides what wind mistakes they will tolerate.

Decide How You Will Practice Wind, Because Wind Is The Real Boss

You have to choose if you practice only on calm days or you practice in real weather.

I learned the hard way that a saddle setup that feels solid at 3 mph feels like a swing set at 15 mph.

Here is what I do. I practice in two wind ranges. Under 5 mph for quiet reps. And 10-to-18 mph for stability reps. I shorten my tether a little and keep more tension so I am not drifting.

This connects to what I wrote about do deer move in the wind, because movement shifts and your setup needs to match it.

If you are hunting open ag edges like southern Iowa, forget about a loose, comfy lean and focus on a setup that lets you hold steady for a 22-yard shot in gusts.

Practice Your “Oh Crap” Plan Before You Need It

You need to decide if you are going to pretend nothing goes wrong, or be ready when it does.

I have had ropes twist, steps kick out, and bows swing into trees.

Here is what I do. I practice a controlled descent twice a month. I also practice getting back into my lineman belt from my tether without thinking about it.

If you hunt alone, this matters more than any accessory you can buy.

And if you have kids like I do, you better be dialed, because they watch everything you do.

FAQ

How often should I practice saddle hunting before season?

I like two short sessions per week starting 8 weeks out, with at least one session that includes real shots from height.

If you only have time for one, do one full timed rep and shoot 10 arrows from the saddle.

How high should I practice setting up my saddle?

I practice at 12 feet and 18 feet, because most of my real kills happen between 14 and 20 feet.

If the cover is thick like the Missouri Ozarks, I stay closer to 12 to keep my shot lanes simple.

Should I practice weak-side shots from a saddle?

Yes, because bucks love showing up on your weak side, and saddle hunting can cover it if you train.

I keep weak-side shots inside 20 yards until I can draw smooth without hip-pinch or twisting.

What is the biggest mistake guys make practicing saddle hunting?

They practice hanging, not hunting, and they never time their setup or shoot from the position.

The second biggest mistake is practicing on one perfect tree and then getting humbled on public land.

Do I need to practice in the rain?

I do at least one session in wet conditions because ropes, bark, and platforms all act different when soaked.

For how deer act during wet weather, I lean on what I wrote about where deer go when it rains so I do not overthink a rainy opener.

What should I do if my platform or steps make noise during practice?

Stop and fix it right then, because noise never gets better when a buck is at 60 yards.

Most of the time it is a buckle, a loose cam, or metal touching metal, and a little tape or tightening solves it.

Decide If You Are Practicing For A Doe At 12 Yards Or A Buck At 28 Yards

This is a tradeoff, and it matters.

Close shots are forgiving on aim but unforgiving on movement, because they catch you drawing.

Farther shots are forgiving on movement but unforgiving on form, because little errors grow fast.

Here is what I do. I build my practice around 15 yards, then I add 25-yard shots only after my close shots are perfect.

If you want to sanity check what you are shooting at, it helps to know how much a deer weighs, because bigger-bodied Midwestern deer give you a little more room than a skinny Ozark doe.

And if you are trying to teach a kid or a brand new hunter, I keep the practice simple and safe.

That is why I also point new folks to basics like what a female deer is called and what a baby deer is called, because clear words prevent dumb mistakes in the moment.

Decide What “Good Enough” Looks Like, Then Hold Yourself To It

You need a pass or fail standard, or you will drift all summer and still feel shaky in September.

Here is what I do. I do not call a practice session “good” unless I hit my time, stay quiet, and shoot clean from the position I will hunt from.

I learned the hard way that “I can hang in it” does not mean “I can kill from it.”

Back in 2016 in the Missouri Ozarks, I did a bunch of hangs after work and felt confident.

Opening week I drew on a doe at 14 yards and my tether grabbed my release wrist and I had to let down.

That was embarrassing, and it was avoidable.

Decide Your Pre-Season Checklist, Or You Will Forget The One Thing That Matters

You need to decide if you are going to be a checklist guy or a “hope I remember” guy.

Hope does not pack your gear right at 4:30 a.m.

Here is what I do. I keep a written checklist on my phone and I run it every practice session in August and September.

I check bridge length, tether length, lineman length, and platform attachment first.

I check my pull rope knot, because it is always the dumb little stuff that burns you.

I also check my broadhead container and my release, because I have forgotten both at least once in my life.

If you are hunting big-buck country like Pike County, Illinois, forget about “close enough” gear checks and focus on not wasting that one cold-front sit.

Decide How You Will Practice With Full Clothing, Because Bulky Layers Change Everything

You need to choose if you practice in shorts or practice in what you actually hunt in.

Practicing in a T-shirt is a lie once you add a jacket, a bino harness, and a neck gaiter.

Here is what I do. Two weeks before season, I do at least three reps wearing my early-season clothes.

Then I do one rep wearing my late-season layers, even if it is 78 degrees and I sweat.

Back in 2014 in Buffalo County, Wisconsin, I practiced all summer light and clean.

In November I added a puffy jacket and my bowstring smacked my sleeve on the draw.

That miss still makes my stomach hurt.

Decide If You Will Practice In The Dark, Or Be Surprised By The Dark

You have to decide if you want “safe and comfy” practice or real practice.

I am not telling you to do anything unsafe, but low light changes everything you touch.

Here is what I do. I do one practice session at dusk where I start the climb 25 minutes before legal shooting light ends.

I learn exactly what I can do by feel, and what needs a headlamp on red.

I also practice clipping in with my eyes closed on the ground first.

That sounds silly until you are on a tree at 18 feet and your headlamp is dead.

Decide Your “Arrow-Ready” Routine So You Stop Fidgeting At The Worst Time

You need a routine that ends with your bow in the same place every time.

Deer catch movement, and saddle hunters tend to move too much.

Here is what I do. Once I am set, I hang my bow, nock an arrow, clip my release on the D-loop, and put my hands in my muff or pockets.

I do not touch anything again unless a deer shows up.

That routine matters more on public land than any camo pattern.

This ties into what I wrote about how fast deer can run, because once you blow one out, your next 20 minutes usually stink.

Decide If You Are Training For A Perfect Broadside Or The Real First Shot You Get

You need to decide if you want pretty shots or dead deer.

Most of my saddle kills are not textbook, because trees and cover force weird lanes.

Here is what I do. I practice one “ugly shot” every session.

I pick a lane that requires me to rotate around the tree, settle, and shoot without rushing.

I also practice drawing and holding for 20 seconds, because bucks love to stop behind one branch for what feels like forever.

If you are hunting the Missouri Ozarks, forget about waiting for a perfect pose and focus on getting your pin settled fast in tiny windows.

Decide When You Will Say “No Shot,” And Mean It

This is a mistake a lot of guys avoid talking about.

I learned the hard way that forcing a shot is how deer get wounded.

Back in 2007 in southern Missouri, I gut shot a doe and pushed her too early and never found her.

I still think about it, and it is why my practice has a hard “no shot” rule.

Here is what I do. If my lane is not clear, if my angle is steep, or if I cannot draw without getting busted, I let the deer walk.

I can always climb down and go home with tags in my pocket.

I cannot undo a bad hit.

Decide What You Carry Up The Tree, Because Too Much Stuff Makes Noise

You need to pick simple or you need to accept noise.

Extra stuff is not “prepared,” it is usually “clanky.”

Here is what I do. I carry only what I will touch in the tree.

I bring tether, lineman, platform, sticks, pull rope, bow hanger, and one small pouch with headlamp and a knife.

Everything else stays in the pack, zipped.

My buddy swears by hanging three accessories and a pack hook tree, but I have found those are just more things to bump in the dark.

Decide Your Safety Habit, And Do Not Get Lazy About It

You have to choose if you are going to be strict about safety every time, or only “most times.”

Most times is how guys get hurt.

Here is what I do. I clip in before my feet leave the ground, and I stay connected the whole climb.

I check every gate on every carabiner with my thumb before I trust it.

I also practice lowering my bow with the pull rope before I ever practice taking it up.

That way I am not learning knots with a $1,200 bow hanging over rocks.

Decide If You Are Practicing For Your Woods, Not Instagram Woods

Your terrain decides what kind of saddle hunter you should be.

I split time between Pike County, Illinois and the Missouri Ozarks, and they do not hunt the same.

Here is what I do. On the Pike County lease I practice longer sits and longer shots through open woods.

On Ozark public I practice quick, ugly setups in cover, because that is what the trees give you.

If you are hunting hill country like Buffalo County, Wisconsin, forget about one perfect height and focus on getting level and stable on a sidehill.

This connects to what I wrote about how high deer can jump, because the ones living around pressure do not tolerate much, and they bail fast.

Decide What “Ready For Season” Means For You

I will tell you my standard, and you can steal it.

Here is what I do. I call myself ready when I can do three clean reps in a row.

That means under 8 minutes to arrow-ready, no metal noise, and 3-for-3 inside a paper plate at 20 yards from hunting height.

If I cannot do that on a leaning tree, I keep practicing.

I have hunted a long time, and I have found deer I thought were gone and lost deer I should have found.

The best way I respect the animal is showing up trained, not “hoping it works.”

If you want extra perspective on how deer react to pressure and weird movement, it helps to read do deer attack humans, because it shows you how their brain works under stress.

Now go run reps, not hangs.

That first cold morning will feel a whole lot better when your hands move without thinking.