Best Broadhead for Pass Through Shots

Pick a Broadhead That Punches Two Holes, Not Just a Big One

The best broadhead for pass through shots is a sharp, tough fixed blade in the 100 to 125 grain range, like the QAD Exodus, Magnus Black Hornet, or Muzzy Trocar, shot from a well-tuned bow.

If you want the shortest blood trail, I would rather have two holes and a steady leak than one huge entrance and no exit.

I have been shooting a compound for 25 years, and I still watch guys blame broadheads when their arrow is flying like a knuckleball.

Here is what I do every season on my Pike County, Illinois lease and on public land in the Missouri Ozarks.

Decide What You Care About More, Big Cuts Or Two Holes

A pass through is about penetration first, and cutting second.

That is the tradeoff, and you have to pick your poison before you ever hit “add to cart.”

Big mechanicals can wreck a rib cage, but they also eat energy to open.

Fixed blades usually slide through better, but they can plane if your bow tune is sloppy.

I learned the hard way that “huge cutting diameter” means nothing if the arrow stops in one lung.

Back in 2007 when I was hunting the Missouri Ozarks, I gut shot a doe and pushed her too early, and I never found her.

That was my fault, not the broadhead’s, but it made me obsess over clean holes and clean blood.

If you are hunting steep hill country like Buffalo County, Wisconsin, forget about “maybe I’ll find her later” thinking and focus on a pass through.

Dragging a deer out of a ravine with no blood is a special kind of misery.

My Quick Rule of Thumb

If your shots are under 30 yards and you shoot 60 to 70 pounds, do a fixed blade with a cut-on-contact tip.

If you see bright pink, frothy blood, expect a dead deer inside 120 yards if you do not bump it.

If conditions change to hard quartering-to angles, switch to the toughest fixed blade you can sharpen and trust.

Fixed Blade Vs Mechanical, Make The Call Before You Get In The Tree

I am not anti-mechanical, but I am picky about where I use them.

My buddy swears by Rage Hypodermic, but I have found fixed blades give me more exits on ribs and shoulder fringe hits.

In Pike County, Illinois I can be patient and wait for a perfect broadside at 22 yards.

On public land in the Missouri Ozarks, shots happen fast, and the angle is not always your dream angle.

If I know I am hunting tight cover and might have to thread one, I want a broadhead that does not waste energy deploying.

If I am sitting a field edge in Southern Iowa style ag country and the deer are relaxed, I can tolerate a mechanical more.

That is the exact “it depends” part, and it depends on shot angle and how much time you have to pick a lane.

When I am trying to time deer movement, I check feeding times first.

That tells me if I am likely to get calm, feeding deer or twitchy, late-moving deer.

Bow Setup Mistakes That Kill Pass Throughs

You can buy the best broadhead on earth and still get one-hole hits if your setup is off.

I wasted money on $400 ozone scent control that made zero difference, but I used to cheap out on the stuff that actually matters, like arrows and tuning.

Here is what I do before season, every year.

I paper tune, then I shoot broadheads at 20 and 40 yards and make them hit with my field points.

If they do not group together, I do not “hope it’s fine.”

I twist yokes, move rests in tiny bumps, and I keep shooting until it is fixed.

For pass throughs, I want a heavier arrow than most guys run.

On my current setup I like 450 to 525 grains total arrow weight for whitetails.

That is heavy enough to carry, but not so heavy that my pin gaps get dumb at 40 yards.

If you are hunting Ohio shotgun or straight-wall zones and you switch to a crossbow sometimes, do not assume your crossbow broadhead choice is the same.

Crossbows push different speeds and can be harder on mechanicals, especially cheap ones.

This connects to what I wrote about where to shoot a deer if you want the highest odds of a fast recovery.

My Top Fixed Blade Picks For Pass Through Shots

I am giving you broadheads I would actually hunt with.

I am also telling you why I trust them, because brand names alone do not mean much.

QAD Exodus, My “I Want An Exit” Broadhead

If you told me I had to pick one fixed blade and hunt the rest of my life, Exodus would be in the top two.

They fly like field points for me if my bow is tuned, and they hold together on hard hits.

The blades are replaceable, which matters when you slam one into a rock after a miss.

I learned the hard way that “one and done” heads get expensive when you hunt 30 plus days a year and practice like you should.

Exodus is not the cheapest, but I trust it more than bargain heads when a buck is at 18 yards and the wind is wrong.

Magnus Black Hornet, The Head I Can Sharpen And Trust

I like a broadhead I can touch up and keep hunting, especially on public land where I may shoot a doe and a buck in the same week.

Magnus makes heads that are easy to sharpen and they stand behind them with a real warranty.

If you are the kind of hunter who actually checks sharpness every sit, this is your lane.

Here is what I do in my garage, the same place I process my deer like my uncle the butcher taught me.

I run a simple flat stone and finish with a strop, and I do not stop until the head grabs my thumbnail.

If you do not want to sharpen, that is fine, but do not pretend dull heads “still kill.”

They kill slower, and slower means farther.

Muzzy Trocar, The Cheap Workhorse That Keeps Doing Its Job

I have killed deer with Muzzys since I was too broke to be picky, and they still have a place.

They are not fancy, but they are tough and they penetrate well for the price.

If you are a beginner hunter buying broadheads and diapers in the same week, I get it.

I have two kids, and I know the budget squeeze.

Trocar tips punch, and the heads usually survive a pass through into dirt better than thin-bladed heads.

Just do not screw them onto a wobbly insert and call it good.

Spin test every arrow, because wobble steals penetration and makes tracking harder.

Cut On Contact Or Chisel Tip, Do Not Pretend They Are The Same

This is a real tradeoff, and guys argue about it at every range.

Cut-on-contact heads tend to start cutting right now, even at lower energy.

Chisel tips can bust through harder stuff, but they can also waste a little energy getting started.

On whitetails, I lean cut-on-contact for pass throughs unless I know I may hit heavier bone.

If I am hunting thick Ozark cover where a deer can duck and spin, I want the head that keeps working even if the hit is not perfect.

If I am hunting a food plot edge and I can wait for a clean broadside, chisel tip is fine.

If you are new to this, start with my breakdown of deer species so you are not mixing up whitetail expectations with bigger-bodied animals.

Blade Count And Cutting Diameter, Pick One Problem To Solve

More blades make a bigger cut, but they also add friction.

Bigger cut is great, until it robs you of the exit hole you needed.

For pass throughs, I like a 1 inch to 1.25 inch cut in most setups.

I know guys shooting 1.75 inch cuts and getting exits, but they are also shooting heavy arrows and high poundage.

If you are shooting 50 pounds and a 380 grain arrow, forget about giant cuts and focus on penetration.

If you do not know what your deer weighs, it matters more than people think.

This ties into how much a deer weighs because a 210 pound Midwest buck is not the same problem as a 125 pound Ozark buck.

Sharp Beats Fancy, And I Will Die On That Hill

I have watched razor sharp heads make a blood trail look like you dumped a paint can.

I have also watched dull heads make a “good hit” turn into a 400 yard nightmare.

Back in November 2019 in Pike County, Illinois, I killed my biggest buck, a 156 inch typical, on a morning sit after a cold front.

The shot was 19 yards, and the arrow blew through and stuck in the dirt.

The broadhead was shaving sharp, and the blood started in 12 steps.

That is not luck, that is prep.

When I want to remind myself how tough deer are, I reread what I wrote about are deer smart.

A deer does not have to “know” anything to beat you, it just has to react once.

Do Not Ignore Wind And Rain, They Change The Shot You Get

Your broadhead choice does not matter if you never get a clean lane.

Wind makes deer edgy, and edgy deer jump strings and spin.

That connects to what I wrote about do deer move in the wind because movement and body language change your angle odds.

If it is raining, I still hunt, but I plan for a closer shot and a faster follow-up.

This ties into where deer go when it rains because rain changes where they bed and how they enter food.

My Tracking Reality Check, A Pass Through Is Not A Magic Spell

A pass through helps, but it does not replace patience.

I have lost deer I should have found, and found deer I thought were gone.

The biggest tracking mistake I see is people climbing down too soon and pushing a deer that would have died within sight.

I learned the hard way in 2007 that pushing a deer turns a bad hit into a worse outcome.

If you want help thinking through what you are seeing on the ground, it helps to know what kind of deer you shot.

That is why I keep the basic terms straight, like what a male deer is called and what a female deer is called, because behavior and travel can differ in real ways during the rut.

FAQ

What broadhead gives the best chance of a pass through on a whitetail?

A sharp fixed blade with a modest cut, around 1 to 1.25 inches, gives me the most consistent exits.

QAD Exodus and Magnus Black Hornet are the two I trust when angles are not perfect.

Should I use 100 grain or 125 grain broadheads for better penetration?

If my bow is already tuned and I want a little more momentum, I go 125 grains and build a 475 to 525 grain arrow.

If you are struggling with arrow flight, stay at 100 grains until you fix tune, because bad flight kills penetration.

Do mechanical broadheads get more pass through shots or fewer?

In my experience they get fewer pass throughs on marginal angles because energy gets used opening the blades.

On perfect broadside shots, they can pass through fine, but I do not like relying on perfect.

How sharp is “sharp enough” for a broadhead?

If it will not grab your thumbnail with light pressure, it is not sharp enough for me.

I want it to shave hair, because sharp heads cut easier and waste less energy.

What is the biggest mistake people make when trying to get pass through shots?

They ignore tuning and blame the broadhead, then shoot broadheads that do not hit with field points.

The second mistake is taking hard quartering-to shots and hoping the head “powers through” the shoulder.

Is a pass through always better for blood trails?

Most of the time, yes, because you get an exit hole low on the body and blood drains on the ground.

But you still have to watch the deer, mark last sight, and not push it if the hit was suspect.

What I Want You To Remember Before You Buy Another Pack

If you care about pass through shots, buy a tough fixed blade, tune your bow until broadheads hit with field points, and shoot a heavier arrow than your buddy who only cares about speed.

Two holes beats one big hole, especially on public land where you might only get one tracking window before rain or pressure wipes your sign.

Back in November 1998 in Iron County, Missouri, I killed my first deer, an 8-point buck, with a borrowed rifle.

Even then I learned the same rule still applies today with a bow, which is that good hits and good exits make recoveries boring.

Here is what I do when season gets close.

I pick one head I trust, I buy enough to practice, and I do not change stuff in October because someone on the internet got excited.

I wasted money on gimmicks like that $400 ozone scent control, and the deer still smelled me.

I do not waste effort anymore on stuff that does not put a hole through both sides.

Make This One Decision, Are You Willing To Pass On Bad Angles?

This is the real decision, because broadhead choice will not save a bad angle.

If you are not willing to pass on a hard quartering-to shot at 17 yards, you need the toughest fixed blade you can run and you need to keep the cut modest.

Here is what I do on my Pike County, Illinois lease.

I wait for broadside or slight quartering-away, and I aim tight to the offside leg to buy myself an exit.

Here is what I do on public land in the Missouri Ozarks.

I hunt closer to bedding, I expect weird angles, and I shoot fixed blades because I want less to go wrong when the deer is tense.

My buddy swears by big mechanicals for “more blood,” but I have found a calm deer and a sharp fixed head gives me more dead deer inside 80 yards.

If you are hunting steep hill country like Buffalo County, Wisconsin, forget about trying to “make it work” on a bad angle and focus on waiting for the shot that gives you an exit downhill.

Stop Asking If The Broadhead Is Good, Ask If Your Arrow Is Built For It

A lot of guys blame broadheads when their arrow setup is the real problem.

If your arrow is too light, your FOC is weak, and your broadhead is big, you are betting on luck.

Here is what I do for whitetails.

I run 450 to 525 grains total weight, I keep blades sharp, and I shoot the same arrow in practice that I hunt with.

I learned the hard way that “fast” feels good until you hit a rib at a bad angle and the arrow stops.

If you are hunting thicker cover like the Missouri Ozarks, forget about huge cuts and focus on a head that stays together when it clips brush or hits bone.

When I am thinking about how far a deer can go even after a good hit, I look at how fast deer can run because it reminds me how quick things go sideways if you rush.

Pick Your Realistic Pass Through Goal, Dirt, Offside Hide, Or Full Exit

Guys talk about pass through like it is one thing, but it is not.

Your goal might be “arrow in the dirt,” or it might be “broadhead sticking out the offside,” depending on the shot and the deer.

Here is what I do for expectations.

If I am shooting a 140 pound Ozark doe at 15 yards, I expect an exit almost every time with a fixed blade.

If I am shooting a 210 pound Midwest buck, I still expect an exit on broadside, but I do not assume I get one on hard quartering shots.

This ties into why I keep an eye on how much a deer weighs, because body size changes what “enough” penetration looks like.

Do Not Let Shoulder Hype Pick Your Broadhead For You

The shoulder talk is where a lot of people get stubborn.

Yes, tough heads help, but the best “shoulder broadhead” is still a hunter who does not aim at the shoulder.

I learned the hard way that trying to “break them down” with a bow is a pride move.

If you want the highest odds of two holes, slip it behind the crease and let the lungs do the work.

This connects to what I wrote about where to shoot a deer, because the best broadhead in the world cannot fix a bad aiming choice.

Blood Trails, Make The Tradeoff Before The Shot

A pass through does not guarantee blood on the ground fast.

If the exit is high, the chest can fill first and you might not see much for 40 yards.

Here is what I do right after the shot.

I watch the deer until I cannot see it, I pick a landmark, and I set a timer on my phone even if I feel “pretty sure.”

I learned the hard way in 2007 that climbing down too fast and pushing a gut hit can turn into a long night and sometimes no recovery at all.

I still think about that doe.

If you are trying to make sense of deer behavior in that first minute after the shot, it helps to know rut context, and that ties into deer mating habits because bucks can act tough and run farther even when hit well.

Beginners, Do Not Overbuy Broadheads And Undershoot Them

I have two kids I take hunting now, and I see the same beginner mistake a mile away.

People buy one pack of broadheads, shoot one into a foam block, and call it good.

Here is what I do for new hunters.

I buy enough heads to practice with at least six times, and I do not hunt any head I have not shot into a target.

If you are hunting with kids or brand new bowhunters, forget about “latest release” gear and focus on repeatable accuracy and sharp heads.

That is also why I still love those $35 climbing sticks I have used for 11 seasons.

Cheap that works beats expensive that sits in the garage.

One Last Reality Check, Your Deer Does Not Care What Brand You Bought

The deer only cares about where the cut goes and how fast it bleeds out.

I have sat freezing in Wisconsin snow, chased mule deer in Colorado, and dealt with Texas feeders and hogs, and the common thread is always the same.

Sharp and tough wins.

Here is what I do on the night before opening day.

I spin test every arrow, I check every blade with my thumbnail, and I shoot one broadhead arrow at 20 yards just to calm my nerves.

If conditions change and the wind is doing dumb stuff, I adjust my sit, not my broadhead.

That connects to what I wrote about do deer move in the wind, because wind changes the shot you get more than it changes the broadhead you need.

If you keep your broadhead simple, your arrow heavy enough, and your tune honest, you will get more pass throughs.

And you will spend more time dragging deer and less time staring at a pinwheel of bloodless leaves hoping you find the next drop.