Best Brassica Blend for Late Season Deer

Pick Your Blend Based on Snow, Browse Pressure, and Your Soil

The best brassica blend for late season deer is a simple mix of purple top turnips, forage rape, and a little radish, planted early enough to build big leaves before the first hard freeze.

If I can only pick one “bagged” style blend, I want something close to 50% turnip, 30% rape, and 20% radish by seed count, not by bag weight.

I have hunted whitetails for 23 years, starting with my dad in southern Missouri when I was 12.

I grew up poor and learned public land before I could afford any lease, and now I split time between a 65-acre lease in Pike County, Illinois and the Missouri Ozarks.

Late season brassicas are not magic.

They are a cold-weather food that gets better after a few frosts, but only if you grow enough biomass to last through December and January.

Decide If You Want “Leaves Now” or “Bulbs Later”

This is the tradeoff that decides your blend.

If you want deer in the plot in October and early November, you need more leafy stuff like rape and kale.

If you want deer standing there when it is 18 degrees with snow crusting, you need turnip bulbs and big tops that made it through the freezes.

Here is what I do on my Pike County, Illinois lease where the late season can turn into a feed race after gun season.

I plant a blend that is leaf-heavy early, but still has enough turnip to carry the plot into January if the browse pressure is not insane.

Back in November 2019 in Pike County, Illinois, I killed my biggest buck, a 156-inch typical, on a morning sit after a cold front.

That buck was not eating magic beans.

He was doing what deer do after a weather swing, and I had food close to cover, with a clean entry.

When I am trying to time deer movement, I check feeding times first.

It keeps me from blaming the plot when the real issue is I am sitting the wrong hour.

My Favorite Late Season Brassica Blend (The One I Actually Plant)

I like a three-part blend because it covers mistakes.

If a dry August hurts one crop, the others still give you something.

Here is what I do when I am building a late season plot that has to produce under real hunting pressure.

I plant purple top turnips, dwarf essex rape, and daikon-type radish in the same pass.

My rough target is 3 pounds per acre of turnips, 2 pounds per acre of rape, and 1 pound per acre of radish.

I am not saying it has to be exact.

I am saying stop planting 10 pounds per acre because the bag says “broadcast this much,” and then wondering why everything is pencil thin.

If you are hunting the Missouri Ozarks on public land, forget about a tiny “kill plot” in the open and focus on a brassica strip tight to nasty cover.

Those Ozark deer live in brush and timber, and they will hit a small plot hard after dark if it feels exposed.

This connects to what I wrote about deer habitat because food is only half the deal.

If bedding is 600 yards away across open woods, your late season “daylight” plot is a night plot.

Don’t Let the Bag Decide Your Seeding Rate

I learned the hard way that too much seed can ruin a brassica plot fast.

Back in 2013 in the Missouri Ozarks, I got excited, doubled my seeding rate, and ended up with a green carpet that never bulbed right.

The deer ate it down to stems by December and I had nothing left when it mattered.

Here is what I do now.

I aim for a thin, even stand where plants have room, and I would rather re-seed a bare spot than choke the whole acre.

If you are new to deer basics, start with my breakdown of deer species so you understand why northern deer often hammer late season groceries harder.

Body size and winter stress change how fast a plot disappears.

Choose Seed Types That Match Your Late Season

Not all brassicas act the same in December.

Some are leaf factories, and some are bulb builders, and you need both unless you live in a place with a long mild winter.

If you are hunting Buffalo County, Wisconsin hill country, you are dealing with cold, snow, and plenty of pressure.

In that kind of country, I want turnips in the mix because bulbs can keep feeding when the tops get chewed down.

My buddy swears by straight rape because he sees deer in it earlier.

I have found rape alone gets stripped on small properties and you can be “out of groceries” by Christmas.

That is the tradeoff.

Rape buys you earlier attraction, but turnips buy you a longer pantry if the plot is big enough.

When I am thinking about winter survival food, I also think about deer size, and I check how much a deer weighs so I can picture how fast a group can clean up an acre.

Planting Window Mistake That Wrecks Late Season Brassicas

The biggest mistake is planting too late and hoping frost “makes it sweet.”

Frost helps, but frost cannot build leaves that never grew.

Here is what I do in my part of the Midwest.

I try to plant brassicas about 70 to 90 days before my average first hard freeze, not the first light frost.

In Pike County, Illinois, that usually puts me in late July through mid-August depending on rain.

If I miss rain and the forecast is dry for 10 days, I wait and plant right before a front that drops a half inch.

I grew up poor and I still hate wasting seed.

I would rather be patient than throw $68 of seed into dust.

Fertilizer: Decide If You Want “Good Enough” or “Max Yield”

You can grow brassicas with minimal fertilizer, but you will not get the late season tonnage most guys are dreaming about.

That is the tradeoff.

Here is what I do because I want bulbs and tops that last.

I soil test, then I run enough nitrogen to push leaf growth early, and I keep pH around 6.0 to 7.0 if I can.

I learned the hard way that guessing at pH is how you get a “pretty” plot that never takes off.

Back around 2016 on a small spot I tried in the Ozarks, I skipped lime because I did not want to haul it, and the stand stayed stunted all fall.

That plot looked green from the road but did not feed like it should.

If you want my other food options, this ties into what I wrote about best food plot for deer because brassicas are not my only late season tool.

Sometimes oats or winter wheat are a better play if you planted late.

My Quick Rule of Thumb

If your first hard freeze hits by mid-October, do a turnip-heavy blend and plant by mid-August.

If you see big tops getting clipped to golf-course height in September, expect your plot to be gone by December unless you add acreage or protect it.

If conditions change to drought and dusty soil, switch to waiting for a rain front instead of “planting on hope.”

Protecting Brassicas From Getting Wiped Out Too Early

Small brassica plots can get destroyed fast if you have a lot of mouths.

I have seen a half-acre plot get eaten like it owed money once the first frosts hit.

Here is what I do when browse pressure is high.

I either plant bigger than my ego wants, or I split the planting into two spots so deer cannot wipe it all in one week.

On small properties, I like placing brassicas where deer can step out of cover, eat, and step back in within 30 yards.

That is how you get daylight use late season.

If you are hunting a place with lots of gun pressure like Ohio straight-wall zones, forget about a wide-open plot and focus on edge cover and quiet access.

Late season deer will pick safety over groceries if you keep educating them.

Real Products I Use, and One I Regret Buying

I burned money on gear that did not work before I learned what matters.

My biggest waste was $400 on ozone scent control that made zero difference for how deer acted in real wind.

This connects to what I wrote about do deer move in the wind because wind and access beat gadgets every time.

For brassica planting, I have had good luck keeping it simple with a handheld spreader and a drag.

I have used an Earthway 2750 handheld spreader that cost me about $49, and it has held up for several seasons with no fancy parts to break.

The rate control is not perfect, so I mark my gate setting with a Sharpie and walk steady.

If you want a bagged seed blend that is easy and works, Whitetail Institute No-Plow is pricey at around $55 to $75 a bag depending on size and year, but it will grow in rougher seedbeds.

I still prefer a clean seedbed for brassicas, but No-Plow has saved me on a back corner I could not get a disc into.

Where I Put Brassicas So I Can Actually Kill a Deer Over Them

A brassica plot is not a magnet if your access is loud and obvious.

I process my own deer in the garage, taught by my uncle who was a butcher, and I care about filling tags more than posting plot pictures.

Here is what I do.

I place brassicas where I can slip in with the wind in my face, and I can get out without walking across the food.

In Pike County, Illinois, I like a plot that sits 80 to 120 yards off a bedding ridge, with a creek or ditch as my entry.

In the Missouri Ozarks, I would rather have a 30-yard-wide strip on a logging road edge than a full acre in the open hardwoods.

If you are wondering why deer still may not show until last light, it helps to read are deer smart because yes, they pattern you faster than you think.

Mistakes to Avoid Once the Plot Is Up

Do not start walking through your brassicas every weekend to “check growth.”

You are leaving ground scent where deer want to feed in daylight.

Here is what I do instead.

I glass from a distance, or I hang a trail camera on the downwind side and check it at midday after a rain.

If conditions change to a warm spell and heavy rain, expect deer to shift feeding times and staging areas.

This connects to what I wrote about where do deer go when it rains because wet weather changes how they travel to food.

FAQ

What is the best brassica to plant if I only pick one?

I pick purple top turnips because you get tops and bulbs, and the bulbs keep paying after snow.

If your season ends early, rape can show earlier, but it rarely lasts as long under pressure.

How late can I plant brassicas and still have a late season plot?

If you plant less than 60 days before hard freeze, you are gambling on warm weather and rain.

If I am late, I switch to cereal grains and save brassicas for next year.

Why do deer ignore my brassica plot until after a frost?

They often do not prefer the taste until a few frosts change the sugars.

Also, if they have standing beans or corn nearby, they may not touch brassicas until those get cut or covered in snow.

How big does a brassica plot need to be for late season hunting?

If you have a strong herd, anything under a half acre can get eaten to dirt fast.

I like 1 acre or more if brassicas are my main late season food, or I split smaller plots into two spots.

Should I mix clover with brassicas for late season?

I do not mix clover into the same planting if my goal is max brassica yield, because the competition can hurt bulbs.

I would rather have clover in a separate plot or a nearby strip for spring and early fall.

Do bucks use brassica plots in daylight late season?

Yes, but only if they feel safe getting there, and that means cover, low pressure, and clean access.

If you keep bumping them, they will still eat it, but it will be after dark.

Decide If You Need a “Brassica Only” Plot or a Brassica Plus Grain Safety Net

Brassicas are great late, but I do not like betting my whole late season on one food type.

The tradeoff is simple.

A pure brassica plot can be the hottest thing on the farm after two frosts, or it can get wiped out early and leave you staring at dirt in January.

Here is what I do on my Pike County, Illinois lease if I know I will be hunting after gun season.

I plant brassicas, but I also add a thin band of winter wheat on one edge if my planting date is even a little late.

That wheat is not sexy, but it feeds deer even if the brassicas never bulb right.

This connects to what I wrote about an inexpensive way to feed deer because “cheap and consistent” beats “expensive and perfect” most years.

Make a Call on Plot Size, Because Small Plots Get Bullied

If you plant a tiny brassica plot, you are making a decision to either hunt it early or watch it disappear.

I learned the hard way that a quarter-acre plot is not a pantry, it is a snack.

Back in 2018 in the Missouri Ozarks, I had a little opening that was about 60 yards by 25 yards.

I planted brassicas and thought I was smart, then the first two frosts hit and every deer in that hollow started hitting it.

By December 10th, it looked like somebody mowed it down to stems.

Here is what I do now.

If I cannot plant at least a half acre, I treat brassicas like a bow season and early gun season tool, not a January tool.

If I want late season daylight movement, I go 1 acre plus, or I plant two separate spots so one does not get hammered in a week.

Pick One Stand Location Now, Or You Will Ruin the Plot With “Just Checking It”

The mistake late season guys make is scouting with their boots after the plot is up.

You end up educating the exact deer you are trying to kill.

Here is what I do so I do not wreck the plot.

I pick one downwind observation sit 120 to 200 yards away, and I glass it the last 30 minutes of daylight.

Then I move in for a kill sit only when I have a reason, like a cold front, fresh snow, or a camera showing a buck before dark.

When I am trying to predict that movement, I look at feeding times because it keeps my expectations honest.

Decide If You Are Hunting Does for Meat, Or Waiting on a Buck

This is a real tradeoff late season, and guys act like it is not.

If you shoot a doe on the first cold evening over brassicas, you might blow the whole field for the next week.

If you let does pile in and you wait for a buck, you might eat tag soup.

Here is what I do because I process my own deer in the garage and I like full freezers.

If I need meat, I shoot the first calm evening with a steady wind and I get out fast.

If I am holding out for a buck, I hunt the downwind edge and I do not shoot a doe unless she is about to bust me.

Back in November 1998 in Iron County, Missouri, I killed my first deer, an 8-point buck with a borrowed rifle.

I still remember how fast deer cleared out after the shot, and that was in big timber with less pressure than most places have now.

Blood Trailing Reality: Late Season Food Plots Make Tracking Harder

This is not talked about enough.

A brassica plot can hide blood, and a deer can run out of it like a ghost.

I learned the hard way that poor tracking choices haunt you.

In 2007, I gut shot a doe, pushed her too early, and never found her, and I still think about it.

Here is what I do now when I shoot one near a plot.

I mark the last spot I saw the deer, I pick a landmark, and I give it time before I take a step.

If you want the simple aiming reminders that keep you out of that mess, this connects to where to shoot a deer to drop it in its tracks because a better hit is the best “tracking tool” you will ever own.

Cold Weather Hunting Over Brassicas: Pick Your “Best Two” Days, Not Ten Average Days

Late season eats hunters alive because guys sit too much and burn out a good spot.

I hunt 30 plus days per year, and I still try to be picky late season.

Here is what I do to keep a brassica plot from becoming a nighttime buffet.

I hunt it on the first evening after a serious temperature drop, like a 15 degree swing.

I also hunt it on the first calm, high pressure day after snow, when it is crisp and quiet and deer feel safe moving before dark.

My buddy swears by hunting it every evening until he connects.

I have found that turns a daylight plot into a midnight plot, especially on smaller ground like my 65 acres.

One More Gear Note I Trust, Because It Saves Real Time in the Dirt

I am not a gear guy, because I wasted money on junk before I learned what matters.

But a good soil test kit and a cheap pH probe have saved me more seed than any scent spray ever did.

Here is what I do if I am on a budget.

I grab a basic Rapitest Soil Test Kit for around $15 to $25, and I at least get in the ballpark before I throw seed.

It is not lab perfect, but it is better than guessing and hoping.

Use the Plot to Learn Your Deer, Not Just Feed Them

A late season brassica plot is also a window into what deer live there and how they act under pressure.

If you pay attention, it tells you where to hunt next year.

Here is what I do every winter.

I look at entry trails in snow or mud and I find where deer stage before stepping into the plot.

That staging cover is where I want my stand next season, not right on the food.

If you want a reminder on what deer are capable of when they are spooked, I keep how high can a deer jump in the back of my mind.

If you put your access near a fence crossing, they will clear it and be gone before you ever get settled.

Late season is also when bucks act different than does, and it helps to know the basics of what a male deer is called and what a female deer is called when you are reading other plot and rut talk.

Words matter, because behavior and goals matter, and I do not hunt a late season doe group the same way I hunt a worn down buck.

Wrap Up: The Blend Matters, But Your Timing and Pressure Matter More

The seed mix I like is not complicated, and it is not expensive if you buy it by the pound.

The hard part is planting early enough, feeding it right, and hunting it like you want deer in daylight.

I have frozen on stands in Buffalo County, Wisconsin and I have watched Ozark deer slip out after dark like they had night vision.

The late season guys who kill deer over brassicas are the ones who stop stomping around, pick their days, and keep the plot close to cover with a clean entry.

If you do that, that simple turnip, rape, and radish mix will put deer in bow range when the woods feel empty.