Best ATV Seeder for Food Plots

Pick Your Seeder Based on What Your Plot Actually Looks Like

The best ATV seeder for food plots, for most deer hunters, is a Herd GT-77 broadcast spreader.

If you want cheaper and you can live with some plastic parts, the Buyers Products ATVS100 is the best value I have used and trust.

I have been hunting whitetails for 23 years, starting with my dad in southern Missouri when I was 12, and I grew up broke enough that “new gear” meant a garage sale find.

Now I split time between a 65-acre lease in Pike County, Illinois and public dirt in the Missouri Ozarks, and I still plant small plots because deer do not care what your lease costs.

Decide If You Need “Accurate” Or Just “Good Enough” Coverage

This is the decision that saves you money and saves you reseeding.

If you are throwing rye and oats into worked dirt in the Missouri Ozarks, “good enough” works and you can buy cheaper.

If you are putting clover into a firm seedbed in Pike County and you do not want to waste a $68 bag of ladino, accuracy matters a lot more.

I learned the hard way that cheap spreaders lie to you, because they look fine for 30 yards and then you notice strips with zero seed when it rains a week later.

Back in 2014 on public land in the Missouri Ozarks, I ran a bargain seeder with a wobbly spinner and I planted a pretty “bar code” across a kill plot.

The deer still showed up, but my plot looked dumb and I had to burn another Saturday fixing it.

My Top Pick: Herd GT-77 If You Want One That Just Works

If you want to buy once and stop messing around, I like the Herd GT-77.

It is not cheap, but it spreads consistent, the gate setting stays put, and the build does not feel like a toy.

Here is what I do when I run a GT-77 style spreader.

I set my pattern by running a 100-yard pass on the edge of the plot, then I look for the heavy line and adjust speed before I waste a whole hopper.

The tradeoff is price and weight.

You are paying for a unit that is happier throwing pelleted lime, wheat, and bigger seed, and it is still gentle enough for clover if you keep the gate tight.

My buddy swears by cheaper plastic spreaders because “seed is seed,” but I have found the expensive units save you money on seed after two seasons.

For deer behavior timing, when I am trying to predict when they will hit that fresh plot, I check feeding times first.

Best Value I Trust: Buyers Products ATVS100 For Real-World Food Plot Work

If you want value and you are not trying to impress anyone, I like the Buyers Products ATVS100.

It usually lands in that $250 to $350 range depending on sales, and it has held up better for me than the big box “no name” units.

Here is what I do with it so it does not turn into a headache.

I run dielectric grease on the plug, I zip-tie the wiring up out of mud, and I keep the hopper lid bungeed so it does not pop on washboard trails.

The tradeoff is you still have more plastic than a Herd, and plastic does not love cold mornings.

Back in November 2019 in Pike County, Illinois, the morning after a cold front when I killed my biggest buck at 156 inches, I had just refreshed a plot edge and those deer were on it early.

I am not saying the spreader killed that buck, but I am saying clean, even groceries keep deer on your side of the fence line.

Decide Between 12V Broadcast Spreaders And Drop Spreaders

If you are planting food plots, I am taking a broadcast spreader almost every time.

A drop spreader is nice for lawns, but food plot ground is not a golf green and you will hang up or bounce and dump seed in clumps.

If you are hunting small property edges like parts of Kentucky where neighbors watch everything, drop spreaders look “neater,” but they still do not cover ground fast.

If you are planting 1 acre tucked in timber on public like the Missouri Ozarks, speed matters because you want in and out without educating deer.

This connects to what I wrote about deer habitat because the best plots are usually in the worst places to drive smoothly.

Do Not Ignore Your ATV Size And Terrain Or You Will Hate Your Seeder

A seeder that feels fine on flat farm ground feels terrible in hill country.

In Buffalo County, Wisconsin hill country, I have watched guys tip an ATV because the hopper was full and the trail was cut like a creek bed.

If you are on steep stuff, forget about filling the hopper to the top and focus on making more trips with a half load.

Here is what I do on rough ground.

I fill the hopper to about 60%, I keep my speed under 10 mph, and I run passes uphill and downhill instead of side-hilling.

I learned the hard way that “one last full load” is how you shear a mount bolt or snap a plastic bracket.

That lesson cost me a half day and a trip to town, which in the Ozarks can be 38 miles one way.

My Quick Rule of Thumb

If your plot is under 1 acre and tucked in timber, do a 12V broadcast seeder and make two perpendicular passes.

If you see fresh tracks and nipped sprouts along the shady edge, expect deer to hit the plot 20 minutes earlier than the open side.

If conditions change to a steady 15 mph wind, switch to tighter gate settings and shorten your throw width by 25%.

Control Box And Wiring Is Where Most ATV Seeders Fail

The motor is usually fine, and then the switch corrodes, or a wire rubs through and you think the motor died.

I wasted money on $400 ozone scent control that made zero difference, so I have no problem spending $14 on wiring protection that actually helps.

Here is what I do before the first seed of the year.

I check the plug fit, I clean the terminals, I add dielectric grease, and I wrap the harness where it touches the rack with spiral wrap.

My buddy swears by leaving everything mounted year-round “because it is made for outside,” but I have found sun and rain kill control boxes faster than use does.

If you store it outside, plan on buying a new controller sooner.

Gate Settings: Make A Decision Based On Seed Type Or You Will Waste Money

This is not guesswork, even if the dial makes it feel like guesswork.

Pellets and wheat flow easy, brassicas are small and slippery, and clover will punish you for a gate that is open too far.

Here is what I do every time I switch seed.

I put a tarp down, run the spreader for 15 seconds at my normal speed, then I weigh what hit the tarp on a kitchen scale.

That sounds nerdy, but it saves seed and it makes your plot even.

When I am choosing mixes, this ties into what I wrote about best food plot for deer because some blends are forgiving and some are touchy.

Spinner Pattern: Choose “Overlap” Or Choose “Stripes”

If you want a plot that looks even, you overlap on purpose.

If you set your passes exactly at the widest throw, you will end up with light lanes and heavy lanes.

Here is what I do for most seed.

I assume my real throw width is 70% of what it looks like, and I set my next tire track to that distance.

I learned the hard way that a seeder can look like it is throwing 30 feet, but only 18 feet is getting the right rate.

That is why you see skinny green lines in some plots in late September.

Speed Is A Tradeoff Between Coverage And Accuracy

Most guys drive too fast because it feels “productive.”

In reality, speed changes your spread pattern, and bumps change your gate flow.

If you are hunting pressured public ground like parts of the Missouri Ozarks, you want to get done fast, but you still need to plant right.

Here is what I do.

I pick one gear and one rpm, usually 8 to 12 mph, and I do not change it until the plot is done.

If I have to slow for a turn, I shut the spreader off, turn, then start again.

Mounting Position: Rear Rack Versus Front Rack Is Not Just Preference

Rear rack mounting is common, but front rack mounting can be better in tight timber.

Rear mount throws into your own tracks on turns, and you will dump extra seed at corners.

Front mount lets you see your pattern better and keeps seed dust off your back.

The tradeoff is front mount can block headlights, and on some ATVs it makes steering feel heavier.

If you are running narrow trails in the Missouri Ozarks, forget about wide rear-mounted rigs that snag every sapling and focus on a compact mount and a lid that seals.

Do Not Buy A Seeder Before You Decide How You Will Handle Fertilizer And Lime

Seed is easy on a spreader, but fertilizer and pellet lime are what chew stuff up.

If you plan to throw fertilizer through the same seeder, you need metal parts and you need to rinse it out the same day.

Here is what I do after fertilizer.

I dump the hopper, I run the motor empty for 10 seconds, I rinse with a garden hose, then I spray a light coat of WD-40 on the spinner and hardware.

I learned the hard way that “I will wash it tomorrow” turns into a seized spinner and white corrosion in the motor area.

Food Plot Reality Check: Your Seeder Will Not Fix Bad Plot Placement

Guys love gear because it feels like control.

Deer decide based on cover, pressure, and wind, not because your spread pattern is pretty.

When I am trying to pick a plot spot on the edge of an Illinois bean field or a small Ozark bench, I lean on what I wrote about do deer move in the wind because wind is what ruins most “perfect” setups.

If you are hunting open ag like Southern Iowa, your seeder matters for acreage and speed.

If you are hunting tight cover like the Ozarks, access matters more than seed brand.

What I Actually Carry In The Box So I Do Not Lose A Planting Day

I am not a professional guide, and I process my own deer in the garage, so I treat time like money.

If the seeder quits and you go home, your “one free Saturday” is gone.

Here is what I do.

I keep two spare fuses, a cheap test light, a small socket set, and a roll of electrical tape in the ATV box.

I also keep one extra spinner pin or clip if the model uses one, because that tiny part will end your day fast.

FAQ

What size ATV seeder do I need for a 1 acre food plot?

I like a 70 to 100 pound capacity hopper for 1 acre because it keeps you from making five trips.

If your access is steep or rocky like the Missouri Ozarks, I would rather run a 70 pound hopper and stay stable.

Can I spread clover with an ATV broadcast seeder without wasting seed?

Yes, but you have to tighten the gate and slow down, and you need overlap passes.

I also like mixing clover with pellet lime or fertilizer to bulk it up, but only if the spreader can handle it and you clean it right after.

Should I spread fertilizer with the same seeder I use for seed?

You can, but it will shorten the life of cheap units because fertilizer is corrosive.

If you do it, rinse it the same day and store it dry, or plan on replacing a motor or controller.

Why does my ATV seeder clog even when the seed is dry?

Most clogs are from a gate that is too tight, a seed mix with fluffy hulls, or vibration that bridges seed at the opening.

I fix it by opening the gate one click and driving smoother, not by cranking the motor faster.

How do I keep deer from hammering a new plot before it gets established?

I do not fight it on small plots because deer will browse it no matter what, especially does and fawns early season.

If you want to understand who is hitting it, this ties into what a female deer is called and what a baby deer is called because family groups will wipe tender growth fast.

What I Pay Attention To After Planting So I Know If The Seeder Did Its Job

I do not judge a plot the next morning.

I judge it 7 to 10 days later after one rain, when the thin lanes show up.

Here is what I do.

I walk the plot in a zig-zag with a cheap notebook, and I mark bare strips so I can hit them with a hand spreader.

This also helps me plan where I can hunt without blowing deer out, and it connects to what I wrote about are deer smart because they learn where you walk the same trails.

Seed Choice Changes What “Best Seeder” Means

If you only plant rye and wheat, you can get by with a simpler spreader.

If you plant brassica mixes, clover, and pelleted additives, you want smooth gate control and a spinner that does not surge.

When I am building a cheap program for new hunters, I point them to my write-up on inexpensive way to feed deer because a small plot plus smart timing beats a fancy gadget.

If you are hunting a place like Pike County, Illinois where leases are expensive and expectations are high, I still think the best spend is reliability.

My best cheap investment is still $35 climbing sticks I have used for 11 seasons, because dead quiet access kills more deer than shiny gear.

Next Decision: Do You Want A Spreader That Mounts Once, Or One You Can Swap To Another ATV?

Some guys leave a seeder on one machine and never move it, and that is simple.

But if you have kids like I do, and you end up using a second ATV or a side-by-side, quick removal matters.

Here is what I do.

I use quick-pin mounts when I can, and I label the wiring for “power” and “controller” so I am not guessing in the dark at 6:10 p.m.

I learned the hard way that one “easy swap” turns into an hour of cussing if you do not plan the wiring.

More on spread width, calibration, and the 3 seed mixes I rely on is coming next.

Pick Your Seeder Based on What Your Plot Actually Looks Like

The best ATV seeder for food plots, for most deer hunters, is a Herd GT-77 broadcast spreader.

If you want cheaper and you can live with some plastic parts, the Buyers Products ATVS100 is the best value I have used and trust.

I have been hunting whitetails for 23 years, starting with my dad in southern Missouri when I was 12, and I grew up broke enough that “new gear” meant a garage sale find.

Now I split time between a 65-acre lease in Pike County, Illinois and public dirt in the Missouri Ozarks, and I still plant small plots because deer do not care what your lease costs.

Decide If You Need “Accurate” Or Just “Good Enough” Coverage

This is the decision that saves you money and saves you reseeding.

If you are throwing rye and oats into worked dirt in the Missouri Ozarks, “good enough” works and you can buy cheaper.

If you are putting clover into a firm seedbed in Pike County and you do not want to waste a $68 bag of ladino, accuracy matters a lot more.

I learned the hard way that cheap spreaders lie to you, because they look fine for 30 yards and then you notice strips with zero seed when it rains a week later.

Back in 2014 on public land in the Missouri Ozarks, I ran a bargain seeder with a wobbly spinner and I planted a pretty “bar code” across a kill plot.

The deer still showed up, but my plot looked dumb and I had to burn another Saturday fixing it.

My Top Pick: Herd GT-77 If You Want One That Just Works

If you want to buy once and stop messing around, I like the Herd GT-77.

It is not cheap, but it spreads consistent, the gate setting stays put, and the build does not feel like a toy.

Here is what I do when I run a GT-77 style spreader.

I set my pattern by running a 100-yard pass on the edge of the plot, then I look for the heavy line and adjust speed before I waste a whole hopper.

The tradeoff is price and weight.

You are paying for a unit that is happier throwing pelleted lime, wheat, and bigger seed, and it is still gentle enough for clover if you keep the gate tight.

My buddy swears by cheaper plastic spreaders because “seed is seed,” but I have found the expensive units save you money on seed after two seasons.

For deer behavior timing, when I am trying to predict when they will hit that fresh plot, I check feeding times first.

Best Value I Trust: Buyers Products ATVS100 For Real-World Food Plot Work

If you want value and you are not trying to impress anyone, I like the Buyers Products ATVS100.

It usually lands in that $250 to $350 range depending on sales, and it has held up better for me than the big box “no name” units.

Here is what I do with it so it does not turn into a headache.

I run dielectric grease on the plug, I zip-tie the wiring up out of mud, and I keep the hopper lid bungeed so it does not pop on washboard trails.

The tradeoff is you still have more plastic than a Herd, and plastic does not love cold mornings.

Back in November 2019 in Pike County, Illinois, the morning after a cold front when I killed my biggest buck at 156 inches, I had just refreshed a plot edge and those deer were on it early.

I am not saying the spreader killed that buck, but I am saying clean, even groceries keep deer on your side of the fence line.

Decide Between 12V Broadcast Spreaders And Drop Spreaders

If you are planting food plots, I am taking a broadcast spreader almost every time.

A drop spreader is nice for lawns, but food plot ground is not a golf green and you will hang up or bounce and dump seed in clumps.

If you are hunting small property edges like parts of Kentucky where neighbors watch everything, drop spreaders look “neater,” but they still do not cover ground fast.

If you are planting 1 acre tucked in timber on public like the Missouri Ozarks, speed matters because you want in and out without educating deer.

This connects to what I wrote about deer habitat because the best plots are usually in the worst places to drive smoothly.

Do Not Ignore Your ATV Size And Terrain Or You Will Hate Your Seeder

A seeder that feels fine on flat farm ground feels terrible in hill country.

In Buffalo County, Wisconsin hill country, I have watched guys tip an ATV because the hopper was full and the trail was cut like a creek bed.

If you are on steep stuff, forget about filling the hopper to the top and focus on making more trips with a half load.

Here is what I do on rough ground.

I fill the hopper to about 60%, I keep my speed under 10 mph, and I run passes uphill and downhill instead of side-hilling.

I learned the hard way that “one last full load” is how you shear a mount bolt or snap a plastic bracket.

That lesson cost me a half day and a trip to town, which in the Ozarks can be 38 miles one way.

My Quick Rule of Thumb

If your plot is under 1 acre and tucked in timber, do a 12V broadcast seeder and make two perpendicular passes.

If you see fresh tracks and nipped sprouts along the shady edge, expect deer to hit the plot 20 minutes earlier than the open side.

If conditions change to a steady 15 mph wind, switch to tighter gate settings and shorten your throw width by 25%.

Control Box And Wiring Is Where Most ATV Seeders Fail

The motor is usually fine, and then the switch corrodes, or a wire rubs through and you think the motor died.

I wasted money on $400 ozone scent control that made zero difference, so I have no problem spending $14 on wiring protection that actually helps.

Here is what I do before the first seed of the year.

I check the plug fit, I clean the terminals, I add dielectric grease, and I wrap the harness where it touches the rack with spiral wrap.

My buddy swears by leaving everything mounted year-round “because it is made for outside,” but I have found sun and rain kill control boxes faster than use does.

If you store it outside, plan on buying a new controller sooner.

Gate Settings: Make A Decision Based On Seed Type Or You Will Waste Money

This is not guesswork, even if the dial makes it feel like guesswork.

Pellets and wheat flow easy, brassicas are small and slippery, and clover will punish you for a gate that is open too far.

Here is what I do every time I switch seed.

I put a tarp down, run the spreader for 15 seconds at my normal speed, then I weigh what hit the tarp on a kitchen scale.

That sounds nerdy, but it saves seed and it makes your plot even.

When I am choosing mixes, this ties into what I wrote about best food plot for deer because some blends are forgiving and some are touchy.

Spinner Pattern: Choose “Overlap” Or Choose “Stripes”

If you want a plot that looks even, you overlap on purpose.

If you set your passes exactly at the widest throw, you will end up with light lanes and heavy lanes.

Here is what I do for most seed.

I assume my real throw width is 70% of what it looks like, and I set my next tire track to that distance.

I learned the hard way that a seeder can look like it is throwing 30 feet, but only 18 feet is getting the right rate.

That is why you see skinny green lines in some plots in late September.

Speed Is A Tradeoff Between Coverage And Accuracy

Most guys drive too fast because it feels “productive.”

In reality, speed changes your spread pattern, and bumps change your gate flow.

If you are hunting pressured public ground like parts of the Missouri Ozarks, you want to get done fast, but you still need to plant right.

Here is what I do.

I pick one gear and one rpm, usually 8 to 12 mph, and I do not change it until the plot is done.

If I have to slow for a turn, I shut the spreader off, turn, then start again.

Mounting Position: Rear Rack Versus Front Rack Is Not Just Preference

Rear rack mounting is common, but front rack mounting can be better in tight timber.

Rear mount throws into your own tracks on turns, and you will dump extra seed at corners.

Front mount lets you see your pattern better and keeps seed dust off your back.

The tradeoff is front mount can block headlights, and on some ATVs it makes steering feel heavier.

If you are running narrow trails in the Missouri Ozarks, forget about wide rear-mounted rigs that snag every sapling and focus on a compact mount and a lid that seals.

Do Not Buy A Seeder Before You Decide How You Will Handle Fertilizer And Lime

Seed is easy on a spreader, but fertilizer and pellet lime are what chew stuff up.

If you plan to throw fertilizer through the same seeder, you need metal parts and you need to rinse it out the same day.

Here is what I do after fertilizer.

I dump the hopper, I run the motor empty for 10 seconds, I rinse with a garden hose, then I spray a light coat of WD-40 on the spinner and hardware.

I learned the hard way that “I will wash it tomorrow” turns into a seized spinner and white corrosion in the motor area.

Food Plot Reality Check: Your Seeder Will Not Fix Bad Plot Placement

Guys love gear because it feels like control.

Deer decide based on cover, pressure, and wind, not because your spread pattern is pretty.

When I am trying to pick a plot spot on the edge of an Illinois bean field or a small Ozark bench, I lean on what I wrote about do deer move in the wind because wind is what ruins most “perfect” setups.

If you are hunting open ag like Southern Iowa, your seeder matters for acreage and speed.

If you are hunting tight cover like the Ozarks, access matters more than seed brand.

What I Actually Carry In The Box So I Do Not Lose A Planting Day

I am not a professional guide, and I process my own deer in the garage, so I treat time like money.

If the seeder quits and you go home, your “one free Saturday” is gone.

Here is what I do.

I keep two spare fuses, a cheap test light, a small socket set, and a roll of electrical tape in the ATV box.

I also keep one extra spinner pin or clip if the model uses one, because that tiny part will end your day fast.

FAQ

What size ATV seeder do I need for a 1 acre food plot?

I like a 70 to 100 pound capacity hopper for 1 acre because it keeps you from making five trips.

If your access is steep or rocky like the Missouri Ozarks, I would rather run a 70 pound hopper and stay stable.

Can I spread clover with an ATV broadcast seeder without wasting seed?

Yes, but you have to tighten the gate and slow down, and you need overlap passes.

I also like mixing clover with pellet lime or fertilizer to bulk it up, but only if the spreader can handle it and you clean it right after.

Should I spread fertilizer with the same seeder I use for seed?

You can, but it will shorten the life of cheap units because fertilizer is corrosive.

If you do it, rinse it the same day and store it dry, or plan on replacing a motor or controller.

Why does my ATV seeder clog even when the seed is dry?

Most clogs are from a gate that is too tight, a seed mix with fluffy hulls, or vibration that bridges seed at the opening.

I fix it by opening the gate one click and driving smoother, not by cranking the motor faster.

How do I keep deer from hammering a new plot before it gets established?

I do not fight it on small plots because deer will browse it no matter what, especially does and fawns early season.

If you want to understand who is hitting it, this ties into what a female deer is called and what a baby deer is called because family groups will wipe tender growth fast.

What I Pay Attention To After Planting So I Know If The Seeder Did Its Job

I do not judge a plot the next morning.

I judge it 7 to 10 days later after one rain, when the thin lanes show up.

Here is what I do.

I walk the plot in a zig-zag with a cheap notebook, and I mark bare strips so I can hit them with a hand spreader.

This also helps me plan where I can hunt without blowing deer out, and it connects to what I wrote about are deer smart because they learn where you walk the same trails.

Seed Choice Changes What “Best Seeder” Means

If you only plant rye and wheat, you can get by with a simpler spreader.

If you plant brassica mixes, clover, and pelleted additives, you want smooth gate control and a spinner that does not surge.

When I am building a cheap program for new hunters, I point them to my write-up on inexpensive way to feed deer because a small plot plus smart timing beats a fancy gadget.

If you are hunting a place like Pike County, Illinois where leases are expensive and expectations are high, I still think the best spend is reliability.

My best cheap investment is still $35 climbing sticks I have used for 11 seasons, because dead quiet access kills more deer than shiny gear.

Next Decision: Do You Want A Spreader That Mounts Once, Or One You Can Swap To Another ATV?

Some guys leave a seeder on one machine and never move it, and that is simple.

But if you have kids like I do, and you end up using a second ATV or a side-by-side, quick removal matters.

Here is what I do.

I use quick-pin mounts when I can, and I label the wiring for “power” and “controller” so I am not guessing in the dark at 6:10 p.m.

I learned the hard way that one “easy swap” turns into an hour of cussing if you do not plan the wiring.

More on spread width, calibration, and the 3 seed mixes I rely on is coming next.